Which Side of A Movement...

I like to start with the train side before the dial side.

Doing the train side first, how on earth do you remove the third wheel?

I always strip the Dial side first...But I do enjoy the Train side to work on

When stripping a movement completely for a service etc I always start on the train side first and remove the balance assembly, once removed I then go to the dial side to continue the strip, this way (imo) less chance of the balance assembly getting damaged accidentally.

John, I always make sure the Rotor is covering the balance when I start. Maybe I should change my approach...

To be honest i generally remove the oscillating weight at the same time i remove the balance before going dial side.

Good pointer, I'll change my ways...Thanks John

Dial side first

I'm like Tiger John, I start with the Oscillating weight then the (Dial Side as to not damage the D/D wheels ).
( Good D/D wheels don't grow on Tree's here ).......when first I started I noticed they hit the
( Movement Holders ) so I made that a habit to do it that way when started fixing.
( I also remove the .... ( Balance Wheel ) , also, then go to work).
Living in the middle of the ..... Ocean ......makes it quite hard to find parts if damaged.
But I have to get a much better Movement holder again because this " Cheapo Aluminum one " ,
I first had has to go it just does not hold tight. I need to get a better one to do this right.
So have to find the right one now so as to be comfortable to work.

Hmmm interesting. I generally remove the rotor, if there is one, whilst still in the case, the balance too. Then I take it out and sit it in a movement cup (I just don't get on well with the normal movement holders). Then I strip the dial side so it can be flipped over in the cup to let me strip the train side.

Nice discussion, thanks scwf.

Does anyone else use those movement holders/rings instead of the clamping type?

I have such a hard time with balance springs. I am very steady and precise, but I have a knack for making an absolute mess of them at every turn. For that reason alone, I always start with keyless works, then the dial side, then the train side last and I may even leave the balance cock and spring in place so I don't mess them up.

I always remove the rotor with the movement in the case, then with movement in the holder i strip out the dial side first, being careful that the balance is not next to one of the movement holder jaws.
The problem i find with vice type movement holders is, despite thinking the movement is gripped firmly it will always spring out of the jaws just as i have the movement 3/4 assembled, resulting in wheels and screws going everywhere.

Balance springs are my biggest nightmare too.

ivorbiggin said:

I always remove the rotor with the movement in the case, then with movement in the holder i strip out the dial side first, being careful that the balance is not next to one of the movement holder jaws.
The problem i find with vice type movement holders is, despite thinking the movement is gripped firmly it will always spring out of the jaws just as i have the movement 3/4 assembled, resulting in wheels and screws going everywhere.

Balance springs are my biggest nightmare too.

Click to expand...

Exactly my dislike of them! The movement holder rings I find work wonderfully, especially when tightening screws. You don't have to worry about the whole thing flipping over or spend hours trying to align it like in the vice holder.
I use a very cheap staking set so there is always a good size fit to choose.

We are all different...I have no issues with the balance...Ever, Sometimes Bridges...

Meanwhile, I've got no trouble with hand setting and date advancing springs. Funny where we find our proficiency!

thickman808 said:

Exactly my dislike of them! The movement holder rings I find work wonderfully, especially when tightening screws. You don't have to worry about the whole thing flipping over or spend hours trying to align it like in the vice holder.
I use a very cheap staking set so there is always a good size fit to choose.

Click to expand...

Ill look into buying a set. Any recommendations?



DAHASCO We are all different...I have no issues with the balance...Ever, Sometimes Bridges..

I rarely have problems with bridges, just align everything and lower it on, then give it a little wiggle and jiggle and everything usually falls into place.
Just wish it was the same when fitting the balance assy, i obviously need to master the knack.

ivorbiggin said:

Ill look into buying a set. Any recommendations?



DAHASCO We are all different...I have no issues with the balance...Ever, Sometimes Bridges..

I rarely have problems with bridges, just align everything and lower it on, then give it a little wiggle and jiggle and everything usually falls into place.
Just wish it was the same when fitting the balance assy, i obviously need to master the knack.

Click to expand...

Well I only use these cheap old things...
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And I can't help but wonder if I use them upside down (widest part as the foot) but heck it works well for me. You have to hold the movenent (and the holder) gently as you work but I like that anyhow, also that you can pick the movement up at any point and have a good unrestricted view of it, especially good for checking all the pivots are popping into the bridges etc...

I have two sets of those movement ring type holders. One is a vintage wood set and the other a new plastic set. Both work as well as each other. I also own a full set of Bergeon movement holders (clamp type) which I tend to leave in the draw and use the old ring sets anyway.

If anyone ever has to strip a english fusee pocket watch be aware that it all comes apart and is taken out through the front plate.