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Discussion Starter #1
hi,
are there any members here that can recommend someone in Australia that can restore the finish to a stainless steel seiko bracelet/band?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no worries,
I'm sure someone here will know, I just want it buffed/cleaned up - definitely not polished, i hate the 'chrome', over-buffed look that some vintage seiko watches have on ebay.
 

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I just used a 6 section nail buffing pad on my Breil Ducati One. Light buff with no3 was all it needed to return it to its former glory.
I did practice on the spare link first though.
 

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lots of patience and slow going...more time spent with gentle movements is worth it...you should be able to do this yourself
just some stuff from home center or automotive parts store will get you going...
 

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Yes, definitely an easy DIY job.

I use the green scrubbing pad typically found in the kitchen (don't know why the proper term escapes me right now).

You can moisten the pad, tape down the bracelet to a flat surface, then go with even strokes in one direction for an OK brushed finish.

If there are any polished surfaces, you'd want to take care and mask them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
excellent info, thanks guys!

Ugly, here is Oz, we call those green things a 'scour-a'

Thanks for the link RussMurray, I had not heard of them.

cheers
 

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I use fine - say 800 grit - sand paper.
A customer got me to re do his and his step son's Rolex Explorers and that's what I used.
They were happy and gave me the loot:grin:
 

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it all depends on the original finish...best to practice on a scrap item to get the correct finish before you start on your band too...i have learned that from experience...you need to test to see what different patterns will be achieved with different materials...to replicate a certain finish...it will take a little practice....can't wait to see how it turns out
 

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Maybe not for a whole bracelet, but for small/fine repairs you can use a fibreglass eraser (looks like a pen with a bundle of glass fibres in the middle).
 

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I use 400 grade 'wet and dry' paper to remove scratches, then re-grain using 600 grade, finishing off with a 'scotch-brite' green pad, then re-clean the bracelet in the ultrasonic bath to remove any residual cleaning debris.
The same regime works well on cases, just extending to 1200 grade and 'Silvo' wadding on areas that were originally a polished finish.
 

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I have found a perfect combination of a few materials that are easy to find. Depending on how much damage there is to the bracelet I will use a 3M scuff pad used in auto body shops and other restoration work. They make different grades. If it is dinged up bad I start with the medium grit and have at it. it takes a lot of time and you have to keep checking your work making sure you don't miss any deep damage. one I'm done with that I then use the fine grade to smooth thinks out a little better. Then I take it to the buffing wheel regardless of the final finish or not so I have a perfectly smooth surface to work with. Once I get the whole bracelet shined up I like to g at it again with the fine grit pad but this time paying attention to the grain I am leaving and the direction. Once I get the pattern I want I then go back over it again but this time with a Cape Cod polishing cloth. It takes the sharpness out of the grain and blends it into the bracelet. it gives it a nice clean looking sheen but without being to shiny and it also makes it more fingerprint resistant. The bracelets look brand new to my eye if you make sure to get every spot and get the grain looking right.

Michael
 

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Mike...you always amaze me with the detail in these posts....you are a excellent teacher...really appreciate it...what is a cape cod polishing cloth?...God Bless John...great information...you so remind me of Tom Silva from This Old House
 

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Does anyone have experience with replating portions of a band? One of my watches has gold plating on some portion of each link. Is this something that masking tape can help with?
 

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Does anyone have experience with replating portions of a band? One of my watches has gold plating on some portion of each link. Is this something that masking tape can help with?
When masking areas not to be plated, normally a lacquer is painted on to the areas that you do not want to be plated, then cleaned off with solvent after the plating process
 
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