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I use the same oil for everything on my watches. Its ok (none of my customer's complain:) ) but I'm sure I could get a bit more amplitude with better oil for the balance jewels.

What's good? (less centistokes?)
What's not?

Would this be ok? (Pure Silicone Watch Oil, 10 (CS) Centistokes, 4ml)
 

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I watched a old boy oil a balance platform a few years ago before I was really into the watches. He use to sit there working on the watches and eating brazil nuts. He'd get the pivot and gently rotate it around on the brazil nut and then fit the component! Then he'd stuff the brazil nut in his gob and eat it. He said the oil from the nut was the best he'd found over the years :)

Another watchmaker I know uses hydraulic oil and swears by it but I mentioned this a few months back and nearly got my head chewed off. Who am I to argue with a guy who's been repairing watches for over 50 years!

I know this does not help you but I thought you might find it interesting :)
 

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I use the same oil for everything on my watches. Its ok (none of my customer's complain:) ) but I'm sure I could get a bit more amplitude with better oil for the balance jewels.

What's good? (less centistokes?)
What's not?

Would this be ok? (Pure Silicone Watch Oil, 10 (CS) Centistokes, 4ml)
For everything? Pallet jewels, pivots, keyless works, cannon pinion, mainspring barrel walls? Same stuff? What are you using?
 

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:eek:mg::s_laugh:
 

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This one will blow you all away .........

When I first started and had nothing to work with or barely use I tried to use what I had.
This is going to Blow all of You away.
I have these little syringe like applicators for Bikes, Racecars, and who knows what else.
They look like little squeeze bottles for lubing.
I tried it for a while and it worked great and I decide to still use them till today.

Ok, now have a seat, buckle your seat belt and ride to the speed of .......... " Hi-Performance Watch Lubricating ".

:a102:, :41::72:

I use ........ " High performance Lucas Racing Oil ", in all of my watchs.
I use it on everything in the watch that will be serviced or lubed.
I also use ..... " Prolong Oil ", and " Prolong Multi-Precision " ,also that come in
.25 Fluid Ounce squeeze needle syringe bottles.
( Over here they cost around .... $3.00- $4.95 - + per syringe bottle.)
Not one of my watchs have yet fail, and they go through the " Trap Lights ", and continue on everyday.

Since it takes my Friends Top Fueler ...... 300 miles per hour down the track in ...( 4 seconds )
and does not fail or drop a " Bearing ", it will serve my watchs also and wont drop a .... " Jewel ".
It power's my watchs will they not fail also.

Like our Man " Clock Bloke ", has said........... certain nut oils are fabulous to use. They can stand " Extreme High Temperatures " also.
It is used in aircraft supplies, Machine supplies and a lot more. It is a great ... " Furniture and Wood Finish " , polish product also.
Anything that will not break down because of being petroleum based because they contain a little natural water in them.
Nut oils were used to lubricate Bearings and rollers assemblies in the old days, and they still use it but many just don't notice it yet.
It is a Industrial Secret............:67: :93:
That's what was used to make " Wagon Wheel Grease " also all crushed up and mixed with ..... " Bulk Oil ". ( Black Crude )
Note:
That's how it saves me money to buy more ..... " Watchs and Supplies ".
 

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Thats what many still have to find out about things

I watched a old boy oil a balance platform a few years ago before I was really into the watches. He use to sit there working on the watches and eating brazil nuts. He'd get the pivot and gently rotate it around on the brazil nut and then fit the component! Then he'd stuff the brazil nut in his gob and eat it. He said the oil from the nut was the best he'd found over the years :)

Another watchmaker I know uses hydraulic oil and swears by it but I mentioned this a few months back and nearly got my head chewed off. Who am I to argue with a guy who's been repairing watches for over 50 years!

I know this does not help you but I thought you might find it interesting :)
That's it Tony, one has to be around what they will do for a while to find
out a lot of things to do it.
" Only a person that is ashamed to ask questions struggle's to get some where ".
To many foolish people waste other's valuable time.

When many still have to research and find out about a lot of things, some are already doing it and have been doing it.
All one has to do is research a little and then comparisons can be made. I use this oil and it stays in good position to
do the job. I have also been contradicted for doing as lot of things and it has worked for me. I just did some work
on my friends Top Fuel Rail and some came to me and said how come it did that, I said that's what it was built to do.
I did some Engine and Chassis work and it payed off. The problem many have is they are not paying attention to some
things and only watching other things going on.
The Motor did its job, brought home the money and the trophy. I have been around these cars for a long time,
but I watch what others do also in their little ......... " Strategical Hiding Ways ".
Moral of the subject :
" Awareness " ..... is what make's one a Winner, not a ..... " Distracted Foolish one ".
 

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It's good to have some lateral thinking/oiling, but have you read up about oil migration ?? - something that's great in an automotive environment, not so much in watch movements. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...iDjYDMxwdPw--i0rQ&sig2=Nn-cZwvcbv0p9-rmiwoGIg
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...JML7vFZl9udz4ECDw&sig2=25vjodhvv2WSTKFC8G90IA
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...wE6N9_XQFX5GlSv1Q&sig2=8P_F5gQDM22QzvzubmG2EA
Interesting! This would explain why the old boy I knew used the brazil nuts as the lube for pivots on the balance staffs for platform escapements. Reduced friction but with no migration. hmmm I like brazil nuts too!
 

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Interesting! This would explain why the old boy I knew used the brazil nuts as the lube for pivots on the balance staffs for platform escapements. Reduced friction but with no migration. hmmm I like brazil nuts too!
Personally, I prefer to see Brazil nuts used as lubricants - as they taste rank!!!
 

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It's good to have some lateral thinking/oiling, but have you read up about oil migration ?? - something that's great in an automotive environment, not so much in watch movements. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...iDjYDMxwdPw--i0rQ&sig2=Nn-cZwvcbv0p9-rmiwoGIg
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...JML7vFZl9udz4ECDw&sig2=25vjodhvv2WSTKFC8G90IA
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...wE6N9_XQFX5GlSv1Q&sig2=8P_F5gQDM22QzvzubmG2EA
These Oil's have no Migration at all they coat and don't dissolve to migrate.
They are Synthetic, not of any water Base's. Man made to do away with water which will creates heat build up.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For everything? Pallet jewels, pivots, keyless works, cannon pinion, mainspring barrel walls? Same stuff? What are you using?

I use Moebius watch oil for most of the above but a Moebius grease for setting work (keyless) and mainspring arbors. I don't use grease/graphite on mainsprings - I leave them dry and always have done.
 

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I use Moebius watch oil for most of the above but a Moebius grease for setting work (keyless) and mainspring arbors. I don't use grease/graphite on mainsprings - I leave them dry and always have done.
Why don't you grease the mainspring Paul?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why don't you grease the mainspring Paul?


Its a good question:)

I have a very skilled watchmaker friend who tells me to use graphite on the mainsprings...
When I overhaul a watch I have to clean the old gunky grease off the mainsprings - it is part of the reason the watch has stopped. It binds the spring coils together - like two panes of glass if they have oil between them.
I'd much rather have the spring as clean as it can be and completely dry so that doesn't happen and there is no oil/grease to gunk up in there in the future.

Generally I get watches going well from my overhauls so I must be doing something right:)
 

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Its a good question:)

I have a very skilled watchmaker friend who tells me to use graphite on the mainsprings...
When I overhaul a watch I have to clean the old gunky grease off the mainsprings - it is part of the reason the watch has stopped. It binds the spring coils together - like two panes of glass if they have oil between them.
I'd much rather have the spring as clean as it can be and completely dry so that doesn't happen and there is no oil/grease to gunk up in there in the future.

Generally I get watches going well from my overhauls so I must be doing something right:)
I thought as much! I do the same with fusee clock springs for the same reason although it has to be said the victorian thick grease never seems to cause the springs to loose power. I think it's made from whales though so unless your Japanese it's impossible to get hold of nowdays.... The modern replacement springs I do not grease though as they slip together better without lube than with! If I have to use thick grease on the clock springs I use Vaseline Pure Petroleum Jelly as it seems to stay fluid and not dry out unlike the crap modern synthetic greases for clocks that are on the market.
 

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These Oil's have no Migration at all they coat and don't dissolve to migrate.
They are Synthetic, not of any water Base's. Man made to do away with water which will creates heat build up.
It makes little difference if it's synthetic or not. Auto oils are designed for pressurised, mist and splash lubrication - watch oils are not.
Watch oils are designed to not creep/migrate as much as regular car oils.
If you look at the links I gave, you'll see that he uses Mobil 1 synthetic oil as a test subject, and look at what it does - it migrates freely.
Hydrocarbon based automotive oils are not water based, that is just not true.
Combustion produces water as a by product and crankcase condensation also causes water in oil, hence why diesel oils have acid inhibitors to counteract the sulfuric acid produced by sulphur and water.
 

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It makes little difference if it's synthetic or not. Auto oils are designed for pressurised, mist and splash lubrication - watch oils are not.
Watch oils are designed to not creep/migrate as much as regular car oils.
If you look at the links I gave, you'll see that he uses Mobil 1 synthetic oil as a test subject, and look at what it does - it migrates freely.
Hydrocarbon based automotive oils are not water based, that is just not true.
Combustion produces water as a by product and crankcase condensation also causes water in oil, hence why diesel oils have acid inhibitors to counteract the sulfuric acid produced by sulphur and water.
Yep you want to see the damage that can be caused by leaving a engine with modern oils for a long period of time. Hence why when new motorcycles, cars and things like lawn mowers are delivered from the manufacturer they come 'dry'. When I store engines for my classic bikes and cars I remove the sump and clear all oil traces away. These modern oils are not like the old mineral oils. As 7s26b states that can be very acidic if left for moisture to build up.
 

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Hi to all,

For all my 7s26,4205,7002 and 7009 movement,i use basically 5 types of Moebius lubricants:
-9010 for all the ''fast'' wheels ,like minute,center or small seconds,balance jewels etc..
-HP1300 for the big ones (intermediate wheels,canon pinion )
-DX/microgliss for the automatic mainspring,HP 1300 for the mechanical.
-9504 for the mechanical parts like crown,winding stem,setting lever (makes a good feeling of softness).
-Last but not least,9415 for pallet fork.Have some very good thixotropic properties,even ETA recommends for their movements.

For sure it's an quite important investment at the beginning (1ml is about 20€),but it will last easily years.
 
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