The lume on the hands is usually different from the markers, it seems to me that the hands get a lot more lume paint then the marker, at least generally. of course C1 is more similar to C1 and C3 is more similar to C3. If you mix them you will get a degree of more or less in one direction or the other.
In short they will be similar in my opinion but different. How much different I don't know because it depends from how much paint is put on the markers and how much is put on the hand, in the end, I would assume that the only way to tell is to try.
Haha I just tried to post lume pics for comparison, only to realize that I wasn't on that "other" forum and my post count here is 0. Darn tapatalk feed for confusing me.
That said, I read here on scwf that c3 is about equivalent to Seiko's Lumibrite. I have one of those blended Superluminova dials with matching blended hands. While they look amazing and white during the day, the lume is very bad compared to Lumibrite (and most likely c3). I've also used stock Seiko hands with a blended Superluminova dial and it looked terrible during the day. The super white markers of the dial made the greenish Seiko hands look dirty.
I just think you really need to pair c1 with c1 and c3 with c3 (or Lumibrite) to get a nice consistent look. If this discussion is still going on when I get 5 posts, I'll post the lume comparison shots haha.
The first thing is - lumibrite is not the same in all Seiko watches, it has different grades depending on the watch type, so you have to use like for like comparisons.
Diver's lumibrite is significantly brighter than standard, and even then it varies from standard to professional and depends on how much is applied, it's grain size and it's background colour.
C1 is classed as white, C3 is light green (light yellow in daylight) [thx Noah] - so 95% white with 5% green isn't going to make much difference colourwise.
C1 is only 31% as bright as C3 - so it obviously may be a lighter colour, but only a third as bright and also the human eye is most sensitive to green in most all light conditions.
C1 with C3 won't be a good match lume wise.
Here's a test, side by side C1 vs C3. No contest. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/lume-test-c1-vs-c3-vs-seiko-lumibrite-471599.html
Here's an excellent page with more detail http://kronometric.org/article/lume/#3.5
And here's the datasheet for lumibrite http://www.thewatchsite.com/39-watc...72697-luminova-lumibrite-lume-datasheets.html
Dang. Very good information, thank you. I was a bit daunted when I opened the links in your previous post, but this time I sat down and actually attempted to digest the information (since I'm at work).
After my last round of mod parts, all of which were this c1/c3 blend, I came away very unimpressed by c1. Why is it used so prominently? Surely I can't be the only one who would sacrifice that "clean white" daytime look for some decent lume when the lights go out? Also, looking at the relative brightness bar graph as well as some screenshots, I would love to have some parts use BGW9. When finances settle, I might have to take up luming as a new hobby. :/
Hi, Its funny cos I asked the same question 2 weeks ago and really its personal preference!
Heres the story! the 95% c1 mix with 5% c3 still looks white in colour to me looking at the dials I bought, so if you want the hands to match day light lum colour and dont mind that may be the dial indices will be slightly brighter at night then go for c1 hands.
C3 hands will look slightly ivory in colour compared to the c1/c3 mix but will most likely be brighter than the indices at night, so if you want this to happen then go for c3!
I think i will go for c1 on mine. I have some c1 and c3 lume powder mixed together and when applied to a seiko it did make it look white sometimes and other times ivory white.
If its applied to dials with white underlayer paint still visible at the edge of the c1/c3 lume, the lume looks white in daylight.
So there you have it as I see it.
Best of luck choosing.
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