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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,
This is my first foray into the world of repair...(sellers pic)

SRP283K.jpg

I bought a SRP283K which the seller described as:

"The watch is brand new with tags but it will not go.
The mechanism in the rear see through window is stiff & not free moving as it should be. I am sure someone could fix this and have a new working watch."​
I like the case shape etc plus this is a 4r36.​
Any suggestions to get this baby going is appreciated.​
Thanks in advance.​
 

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If the rotor is stiff try manually winding the mainspring with a screwdriver and seeing if it runs.

Second and more tricky lift out the balance and refit plus check the hairspring are not touching each other and its not jumped from the regulator.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the rotor is stiff try manually winding the mainspring with a screwdriver and seeing if it runs.

Second and more tricky lift out the balance and refit plus check the hairspring are not touching each other and its not jumped from the regulator.

Good luck.
As a 4r36 it winds fine, It doesn't seem to have any way of releasing the power. I can move the balance but it quickly stops. (second hand doesn't seem to move)
It may be a hairspring come loose issue. I am not sure if my skills/tools are up to tackling a balance wheel....but....if anyone can point me to a strip down and give me some ideas I might give it a go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks heaps for that. WOW technical!
I might have to bite the bullet and get into this watch....OR....
Any reliable watchmakers in Australia? (Seiko repairer in Brisbane quoted me $180)
 

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I think member Pollyc is down under. As a newbie, the last place you want to go is around the balance & hairspring. This would be like tackling coronary bypass surgery before you've even stitched lacerated skin. Best of luck.
 

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If you remove the balance complete, and the watch is wound grab an oiler and gently nudge the pallet fork, it should flick across to the opposite side, if it doesn't then power is not being transmitted through the train.
Believe me it could be something so small that even under a loupe of x10 you may only see the offending piece of dust/crap at a certain angle under a certain light.
I'm not familiar with that movement but I know from experience how a movement can be stopped, I've had to strip down a couple in the past more than once to find the problem. Keep us updated ok mate, we are all here to help each other ok
 

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I think member Pollyc is down under. As a newbie, the last place you want to go is around the balance & hairspring. This would be like tackling coronary bypass surgery before you've even stitched lacerated skin. Best of luck.

Mike's UK based. What about NZwatchdoctor not oz but close enough?


Sent from my toilet using crapatalk........
 

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This is my first post but I might have something useful. I got a Seiko SRP495 in September. These have the 4R36 movement. It ran fine for a few days then it would stop. A light tap would get it going for a while but then it would stop again. I manually wound it 20 turns but that made no difference.

I sent it back to the seller and he said he would replace the movement with one from another watch. It did the same thing, only worse. I believe he actually opened the case as the notches in the case were in a different position. Anyway, two movements, same problem. Since this is a gray market watch with no factory warranty, I was on my own so I opened it up to take a look. The case back was very tight, cranked down as tight as it would go. Looking at all the assemblies, it looked like there were rub marks on the inside of the case back from the rotor. With the back off, I noticed that the watch was running normally and the rotor was swinging freely. I put the case back on snug but not too tight. The watch has been running fine since.

I haven't had time to investigate further but the watch works fine now.
 

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That is worth investigating, if the rotor is being trapped by the caseback the gear train bridge could be compressed taking up the free play in the gear train.

Check hand/crystal clearance at the same time.
 

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The watch was been working for 2 months. I need to learn more about watch tinkering before I dig into this any further.

I read somewhere that if the stem is slightly too long, it could bind up the gear train. Can anybody comment on this? How does one check the fit of the stem? Are there any measurements? Reference points to measure from?
 
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