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SLR Shroud Replacement Project - 8f35

11942 Views 48 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  ramairthree
5
I now have two SLR001 8f35 divers (8f35 diver post to come).



They (should) feature a one-part partial shroud made from a black rubbery plasticy material that allowed it to be flexed around the lugs before being retained by a set of screws (watch and shroud images poached from web). However the plastic deteriorates over time, becoming extremely brittle (I think it may be the same thing as the 8f56 Landrek crown rings) leading it to shatter, especially when trying to de-mount it from the watch.



The part became very rare, with people buying multiples when they could still be found, however even that route is only as good as the life of the parts plastic, ensuring all SLRs will eventually be shroudless. The part I had included one shroud end, the visible part.




I work in a field with an emphasis on 3D modelling, so it occurred to me that if I could get a shroud part modelled we could at least ensure we had a ‘safe’ 3D file for the part in future, allowing some replacement solution to be found. When I got the SLR with the part of a shroud I learned a bit more about the geometry, and could see that making a single part shroud forced Seiko into the material choice, it has to be sufficiently flexible to get over the lugs. If we separated the two lug cover parts of the shroud they could be made from a more resilient material, with a more conventional lifespan matching the rest of the watch. In fact if we decided to omit the small crown guard portion of the lower lug cover, they would be identical symmetrical parts, meaning we would only need to produce the same part twice to restore the majority of the watches cosmetic identity.

I am familiar with the growth of additive manufacturing, 3D printing. My first goal was to take my one intact shroud part and get it scanned before it died, the plastic is extremely weak. After searching Ireland for a 3D scanning service, I found a very promising candidate… just down the road? Sure enough, Mark Rowan at inspire3D took the part and had it scanned to produce firstly this:



And then worked on it further to create a symmetrical tidied part ready for printing, a step I was planning to do but he proved much better at:



So I hope to have two printed shroud parts shortly in a tougher plastic like ABS to complete one SLR001. I am using that as a learning process to see how well this scan/print plan works and how good the parts look and last. If it’s a success I would be happy to organise producing parts for others who want a set.

One issue is that many of the watches no longer have the complete screw set to secure the shroud to the watch. This consists of 4 larger screws and one smaller screw. Anyone who has a suggestion for getting replacement screws made please come chat, I have not been successful at sourcing these yet (disappointingly one member flatly refused to share a possible screw manufacturing solution they had found...)

Alternatively if someone has an intact full shroud part they would loan to me, I would be very interested in borrowing it to get it scanned so we at least have the full part safe in 3D. We could then look at finding a material suited to printing the full part or making a 2 part shroud in which one part includes the crown guard. Anyone with an interest in any of these avenues please let me know. I am not trying to start a parts business and my day job means this gets fitted in around the edges, but I hope to help get some cool watches off the shelf and looking better than ever.
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Wonderful project Mark. Someone out there must have a new packaged shroud stashed away that they'd be willing to let you borrow for scanning. Much thanks to you from a fellow SLR owner.
Hi,

I would be willing to let you borrow the new packaged shroud as long as it will not be harmed! I have only one new shroud . I also have a few of the SlR watches and would love to have a stronger more durable shroud.
I sent you a personal email . Please let me know.

Thanks
Gerald
Can't help at all, but would just like to say that I think this is a wonderful idea. We need people willing to do this kind of thing to help keep many Seikos alive. Well done :clap:
What he said :grin:

Can't help at all, but would just like to say that I think this is a wonderful idea. We need people willing to do this kind of thing to help keep many Seikos alive. Well done :clap:
What he said :grin:
Agreed :)



ps: I saw an article where they are producing a real houses with these printers.
this is a excellent idea and this way those near impossible parts can be made for a reasonable cost too...
Thanks All, Gerald i have replied by PM your kind offer.

Will update when I have some plastic to show, may or may not be as good as we hope!

Mark
Great news! Thanks Guys. Please keep us updated.
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For some reason I have difficulty getting emails exchanged with the 3D printing guys, but hopefully things are now underway.

Image of the larger SLR screw:



And the dims:

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Is the shoulder between the thread and the head the same diameter ? I only ask because the screw you show in the picture looks to have a bigger shoulder than the 2.37mm (I assume the thread is M2.5 ?).
Is the shoulder between the thread and the head the same diameter ? I only ask because the screw you show in the picture looks to have a bigger shoulder than the 2.37mm (I assume the thread is M2.5 ?).
John, you are quite right, I was free-drafting that quickly to post it, my hand sketch was better as it shows the max 1.49mm thread diameter is less than the (2.37)* 2.30 mm shoulder diameter. You might be the right man to answer the next question: is that likely to be a standard thread? If you had to make a guess, what might it be?

Thanks,

Mark

*edit 2.30 after remeasuring and zeroing
John, you are quite right, I was free-drafting that quickly to post it, my hand sketch was better as it shows the max 1.49mm thread diameter is less than the (2.37)* 2.30 mm shoulder diameter. You might be the right man to answer the next question: is that likely to be a standard thread? If you had to make a guess, what might it be?

Thanks,

Mark

*edit 2.30 after remeasuring and zeroing
Mark, I should imagine the thread is M1.50 fine ?
Mark, I should imagine the thread is M1.50 fine ?
John, thanks - is that a UK 'fine' or a universal fine or...? If I had to describe it to a shop in the US or China, would they need more info?

Mark
John, thanks - is that a UK 'fine' or a universal fine or...? If I had to describe it to a shop in the US or China, would they need more info?

Mark
To be honest Mark I have never dealt with that size thread but just doing a google and they don't have M1.5 fine.

http://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

Check the pitch and compare to this chart.

http://mdmetric.com/tech/M-thead 600.htm
Thanks John, helpful links, I'm learning!
Are these the two screws? they look to be available (in Aus at least)
81506819SCREWIn Stock
81506839SCREWIn Stock

http://service.seiko.com.au/pls/ape...g_min_row=16&pg_max_rows=15&pg_rows_fetched=1
7s I hate it when you do that! I checked the Oceania site for shrouds but obviously didnt think to look for screws... assuming that is they. I will go look at easier sources (Cousins Boley) first, but if not, do you have to go through Smiths for example in Australia to get them?

Thanks and apologies for missing that one...

Mark
No need to apologise mate, we're all human.
I'm not sure about ordering parts in Aus - I'm sure one of our Antipodean members will know.
Borel lists them at $9 a pop !!. I've been trawling for appropriate solutions and the problem is that 1.5mm is not an ISO metric thread - but it is the same diameter as 11BA. I think you'll need to find the exact thread pitch/angle to determine the correct screw, as BA is 47.5 degrees versus the metric 60 degree norm.
Seiko seem to like using hybrid screw sizes.
2.375 = 42gauge and 2.381 = 3/32" I guess it's one way to keep parts sales in house
7s I hate it when you do that! I checked the Oceania site for shrouds but obviously didnt think to look for screws... assuming that is they. I will go look at easier sources (Cousins Boley) first, but if not, do you have to go through Smiths for example in Australia to get them?
Mark
I can call Smith and Smith if you want - I'm in Australia.
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