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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So a couple of you may have wondered, what happened to his great SLR Shroud crusade? http://www.thewatchsite.com/21-japa...9506-slr-shroud-replacement-project-8f35.html .

I had the watch(es), I had the old shroud part, I had a 3D model of the old shroud part... and then work got crazy, a perfectly nice watch got screwed up under my knife (hand puller, whatever), and my 3D printing options seemed to dry up, so the whole thing went on hold.



Cut to last week when i had to visit the US< and thought - gee they can probably 3D print pretty easy and quick there? A bit on online research, an order placed, and a baggie of parts waiting for my arrival.



The geometric fidelity was impressive - that was a sharp-edged accurate looking reproduction of the original piece. I was a bit disappointed with the cosmetic finish, the wood-grain effect being an outcome of the printing process. So its not a final part, but a first step!

The 3D part file had a semi-circular ring between the lug covers which I hadnt realised relied on the original rubber parts flexibility to get over the lugs. I tested one to destruction trying, its a pretty sturdy part, but lets see after UV and wear and tear how they hold up.



Out with the dremel and a cut-off wheel to remove, and on they went.



So I was originally worried about scaling discrepancies - if the part fit over the lugs and if the screw heads were going to fit into the recesses, but although tight, they did.






Finally a wrist shot, my take on this is: if the part had been perfect it still would only hit 85% of the target because its not a full circular replacement shoud. Even so because the part doesnt look smooth and deep black for me its only 70% successful. So .70*.85= 60% success. Its a start.

 

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That looks good Mark. For a first hit i would be happy with that . Personally i wouldn't be too bothered about the fact that its not a single piece - the main thing is is that you are on the way to providing a solution that affects many of this type of watch.
 

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That looks good Mark. For a first hit i would be happy with that . Personally i wouldn't be too bothered about the fact that its not a single piece - the main thing is is that you are on the way to providing a solution that affects many of this type of watch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
bry, dont know anything about the costs of injection molding, especially with limited runs. Do you know anything about that process?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thats what i thought, have found an injection molding shop willing to quote on short runs... will let you know.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The original shoud did not encompass any more of the case. With my replacement what you can see on the wrist is 95% of the correct original shroud.



The small tab on the other side of the crown is missing, not a great omission in my opinion, but if you can find that original shroud it would be great, in particular to get it 3D scanned because all the original parts are reaching the end of their material life, and will require some non-branded solution in future to replace.
 

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Or with the H558 original shrouds, save the plastic and upgrade to one of my Stainless Steel 316L DLC shrouds. Regards Wayne
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got a quote for two methods of vacuum molding :

1 CSL3462 Vacuum Casting PX5210 Smooth Black 10days 15pcs $355.00

2 CSL3462 Vacuum Casting PX5210 Smooth Black 14 days 50pcs $880.00
 

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Bartleboy,

I just purchased a NOS Seiko SLR001. The shroud is perfectly intact. Could I assist you in any way. I am located in the states.
 

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Wow, I don’t know if I’ll get a reply here as it’s so old but anyway I’ll try.
I now own a quartz monster and I’m embarking on this journey. I feel confident now because the quality of 3D printing has improved so much and also because CNC machines are much more prevalent I am attempting to have a quote for an aluminium shroud to be made, so it will look more like the later monsters/tuna can style case.
I have said to my maker that I would like interchangeability so I can use a 3D resin one for my rubber band and an aluminium one for my shark mesh band.
What I’m also doing is using adapters I purchased for my G Shock watches, GA2100 specifically so I can go from the odd size to 22mm and use a nicer band as I’m unable to get links for my original band, so if anyone needs a band I have one I will sell or split links from.
What I really would like is the 3D file, so I hope I may possibly be able to have access to one of those. And I guess it won’t hurt to ask if anyone is interested in an alloy conversion kit? I’m aiming for it to be fully reversible so as not to modify my watch at all.
 
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