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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello to all... i'm new here - and to this - but like 'accountant' i'm drawn in and need to finish plus i want to build a couple of customs for me - after this... i have some questions - need the experts...

so.. i can't seem to find the correct headline, forum, whatever it's called here...
need some help, input, direction --
i just got back a slightly damaged seiko skx173.. with a 7s26c...all original.. and very 'clean.. from 2017 yr.. it was 'jammed'.. the person 'claimed' they dropped it ..???.. opened it up - found the 3 slotted screw/nut to the secondary reduction wheel and that wheel - off - rolling around free..the screw/nut looks as if there is no threaded shaft to screw into the bridge.. the wheel looks like the very edges of some teeth are slightly 'blunted' vs sharp point..i cannot see the broken shaft in the 'riser tube'??
also -
i released the spring pressure on the ratchet wheel & removed it.. loosened the bridge screws slightly - cut a thin strip of wht paper and slid it just enough to view it passing underneath.. so - the tube/furrel/rotor post -(learning all new correct terms) is not blocked - no obstruction - i can see the paper sliding under..
not having a left handed screw - though the ratchet wheel screw is just about the same dia - wrong thread - poss same length - i get a better idea..
taking a small pin - and sliding it into the ratchet post - as a reference - to 'feel' the threads and resistance as a base line - i'd say my 2nd wheel post is approx 40-60% - threads, depth, count, defined and not completely 360 degrees - so it has suffered some damage by the sneaky person who pretended not to know what happened..
i get that the tube/post is pressed in - but it might be easier to just get a bridge plate - then new 2nd wheel to be safe - and screw/nut.. or 2 .. if - if - i find that the existing post is 50% stripped out with the first nut install- and i'm not getting a good secure 'grab'
of all the pics online - none depict how long that shaft is on the screw/nut.. and since i don't have a complete one ..?

i'd prefer to simply obtain a newer bridge plate assembly with the first reduction wheel, pawl, secondary reduction wheel and poss main ratchet wheel? attached and in like new condition - so i could easily swap them out as an assembly/unit.. vs - swapping each piece.. or a new 7s26c movement - plus date day wheels, dial, hands ..
i should mention - after making sure nothing else was 'loose' or 'floating around' - i wound it by screwdriver - and its been working fine for days.. runs a bit fast - but i 'tuned it' a bit - now is 3-4 fast min per day - which i can refine after swapping out the 'auto winding' parts section..just wanted to ensure everything else was 'normal'
so - help... anyone have this assembly.. or direct me to where i could get a newer 'clean' one..
otherwise my options (in order) - locate each part - new and a hubble to see what i'm doing - but pricing is close to a new movement.. not good.. a new 7s26c and do the swap -mvmt - to keep it all original (value wise).. or nh36 plus more parts and either steal from 7s26 or add to the parts list and it runs like it did before - but lost it's OEM value - esp for being 5 yrs old and in excellent if not better condition..
open for your input.. excuse me if i keep getting in the wrong 'area'
thanks
jp
 

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Craftsman
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You should post this over one the Watchmaker section of the forum for more answers. I would go on ebay and purchase a used 7s26c for parts and take what you need off that movement. I understand you can buy these movements brand new for around $40 so not sure what else to tell you. Based on your pictures, looks like the transmission wheel to the auto winding is damaged. You do not have a picture of the auto winding bridge so there may be other parts involved. Your pawl lever looks to be in good shape.

There is a specific setup to placing the auto winding weight on the 7s26. The pawl lever gear hole should be aligned with the balance cock pin in the bridge plate. The weight should then be place on the watch in a certain orientation per the technical guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You should post this over one the Watchmaker section of the forum for more answers. I would go on ebay and purchase a used 7s26c for parts and take what you need off that movement. I understand you can buy these movements brand new for around $40 so not sure what else to tell you. Based on your pictures, looks like the transmission wheel to the auto winding is damaged. You do not have a picture of the auto winding bridge so there may be other parts involved. Your pawl lever looks to be in good shape.

There is a specific setup to placing the auto winding weight on the 7s26. The pawl lever gear hole should be aligned with the balance cock pin in the bridge plate. The weight should then be place on the watch in a certain orientation per the technical guide.
hello..
so.. not sure about the navigation thru here.. to the watchbuilder forum - yet.. thought i was in the seiko section..
as for your suggestions - cool.. though i've learned - a new 7s26c is like 80+ right now & still needs some parts from mine or others.. the nh36 - about the same - plus a few more additional parts.. i'm leery of on/off/on/off with the hands - loosening up.. as for the used/dead 7s26 - not sure where you guys are finding these on ebay - only a couple have the 'c' versions and they're like the cost of a new mvmt - and still dead..
thought about replacing the tube/shaft.. not sure how easily it comes out and goes back in - or any special tools besides some extreme magnification - hence why i thought swapping out the bridge plate was easier - or the bridge plate assembly - even better.. the 'loose' parts swap - will cost close to a new mvmt..
and as to the 2nd wheel - i noted that some teeth looked like they took a 'hit' but i held it in place and engaged the pawl and mimicked the operation - it seemed fine.. but i still would replace it - good eye - that's why i need more mag...
not sure what you meant by transmission wheel - went thru the parts list - can't find one using that name.. but i'm still fresh at it..
thought the bridge plate that this auto wind section was the plate i was referring to replacing.. the one i loosened.. the one that holds the 3 wheels onto.. did i miss something.. as for the bridge plate here -it appears to be fine- what do i know..
i did hand wind it - it is running.. keeps time - seems normal -- got it to 3 min fast per day - and i can't see anything else 'off'.. again - still learning and seeking the shortcuts vs learning the hard way..
i did watch and read a lot.. prior to opening this up - and thanks - i did remember the placement of the wheel and weight when replacing..

i'm still on the fence re new 7s26c or nh36 - re the ''original' clean value.. i get that i can 're-use' some of my parts - but was thinking eventually fixing this mvmt and using the repl for another fresh custom build on my 1st attempt at making something just for me..
still learning and weighing options..
it's looking more and more that if i cannot find a really clean donor or donor parts from an expert.. i may simply have to repl the mvmt.. something i was holding back on .. weirdly - in my real world - that would be my 1st advice to the customer - throw it away.. then again - i'm thinking original is worth much more than a car with a new motor..
appreciate the help and advice and info.. if you have more - i'm open..
jp
 
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