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Seiko 6309-7290 Restoration

9K views 26 replies 12 participants last post by  jay48 
#1 ·
Greetings!
At long last, my slim 6309 was delivered last Thursday and I wanted to share some photos of the watch as received and after preliminary inspection.
I found this specimen in the Philippines in March, just as the global lockdown was enacted. All I had to tide away my time were photos generously sent to me by the seller; and boy was I excited! On first glance, it looked honest and original to itself, but there were a few problems. More on these later.
Here it is, freshly unpacked from its packaging-







I wasted no time in stripping it down for a complete cleanup and inspection.

The click ball is present and after an overnight soak in WD40, works as intended! I can't remove it from its crevice but I read that it's non-removable from the factory and only comes apart when worn out.

There's a small amount of corrosion and pitting here but it'll still be watertight.

Original crown with the elusive 'stem rest' intact. I removed the parts carefully and cleaned out the crown too-

Bezel and insert. Is this insert genuine? I'll probably replace it though.


Movement out

The dial is genuine and useable but needs a coat of matte varnish to hide some blemishes.


The movement runs but the rotor feels sticky when wound. I'm hoping a service will sort it out!

The hands are replacement I think. No matter, I'll paint these up like 7C43 hands and track down a set of authentic flat 6309 hands-


So here's the rundown-
The crystal retainer is cracked and will be replaced. The crystal is original but I've heard good things about Bry's 6309/7548 crystals so I'll be fitting one. Completing the whole project will be a set of VTA gaskets.
Stay tuned!
Jay
 
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#6 ·
Thanks everyone for the lovely comments! I've always had a hankering for a true Seiko Diver and with prices being what they are, the -7290 is the best trade off. First order of business is to refinish the case. Any tips on refinishing the brushed lugs?
 
#10 ·
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Bergeon makes some fiberglass fiber pens used for adding or touching up brushing on cases. They make a smaller pencil thin one and another thicker one for larger surface areas. I have both. I think this would work well for your application after taping off the case.
 
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#7 ·
Looks like a great project!

Generally, a 3m medium sanding block will work well on the lug brushed finish.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I use sandpaper for replicating brush finish - (I find wet and dry ideal). I'd finish the brushing on the top of the lugs with 400 then 800.
Here is a 6309 - 7040 I sold yesterday afternoon. The guy has bought three Seiko 6309s off me ;-)
I got the bracelet from Tools 852 - the ends are made for the 7040 but I did have to file them a bit. The buyer wanted the Jubilee but didn't like "shiny" so I had to mask and sand the inner links.
He's happy with it and so am I ;-)

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#13 ·
Ive been playing around with different grades of sanding pads (scotchbrite type material) as it comes in all different grades and can get some quite good finishes. I find it's best to polish the original finish and brush on a new one.

Different diver models look to have different brushings

Not sure I'd try this with something very valuable but it can improve an otherwise rough case and make it presentable once it's all built up


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#14 ·
I've arrived at a dilemma...The case looks like this at the moment-






Do I go ahead with the refinish or do I leave this original finish? Of course, I'm fairly certain I'll never be able to get the circular finish on the lugs right, but I can refinish the rest. What would you do if your project looked like this? :)
In the meantime, I've got a new bezel retaining ring and all the gaskets sourced.
 
#19 ·
You could get the circular brush redone with a Scotchbrite but since the scratches appear deep you'll probably need to take off a layer with sandpaper and bring it to a high polish. And then cut a hole in the scotchbride about the size of the crystal retaining ring. Tape off the polished edge and go at it in one direction.

To me it depends on the bezel and insert condition. If you could match it with the wabi Sabi on the case then leave as is.
 
#22 ·
I'm back with the final chapter of my 7290 saga. Since the last time I posted, I managed to acquire Bry's excellent crystal, a rare Kanji day wheel for the 6309 and all the gaskets for the rebuild. I painted the hands I got with the watch and relumed them, but the binder I used with the lume was old and resulted in the lume cracking while it dried. I've since got a new pot of Tamiya acrylic matte clear.



Following various tutorials here and on the internet, I spent half a day and got the crown back together (without losing a single stem rest!) and the retainer installed. The day wheel went in next and the whole movement completed.




I had some trouble with the bezel insert because my bezel had suffered a hard knock along one of the edges and would not allow the insert to sit flush. I had to force the original insert in with pliers wrapped in rubber (any scratches would've been hidden by the wear on it anyway) and now it's on there for good. Thankfully the bezel isn't warped and rotates fully with extreme resistance. I'm hoping its the new bezel gasket that's causing it. I played around with the bezel and the crystal press and got that sloping effect on the bezel insert that we see on the 7040s. The movement is going in for a full rebuild by a professional watchsmith as soon as I sort out the hands.

On to the photos!








Minus the hands-










It looks anything but restored; it's scruffy, beaten up and tired, but it is an honest example and it has its own charm. Most serious collectors would frown upon the little 'extras' I've added and would consider this an unholy amalgamation, but for a cash-strapped enthusiast and tinkerer like me, this is the best way to add a legendary Seiko diver to my modest collection.
Thanks for reading!
Jay
 
#23 ·
I for one very much like what you did there!

An honest but restored watch can be very satisfying. Nice work with the Kanji Wheel. Since it makes you happy then it's a great addition.

Oddly I'm traveling with my quite similar story, ex-Phillipines resto job. Same crystal from Bry, too. Almost wore it today !

Watch Analog watch Clock Silver Everyday carry
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the nice words! Yours looks all honest as well. I'm working on a 7002-7000 for a friend so I had the opportunity to compare both cases and the 7290 blows it out of the water. I feel the 7002's deep chapter ring ruins the proportions of the slim case and dial (an irk I had with the SKX as well) and the crown assembly a bit simple. All said, I see why the first gen 6309s and 6306s fetch a lot of money today!

A donor 6309 I bought (which had the Kanji day wheel) had no calibre markings or any text on the bridge. Are these JDM/Asian market 6309s?
 
#26 ·
Movement serviced and back on my wrist. While this was at the watchsmith's, I came across a better genuine dial which I bought. It's still not mint but a whole lot better than what I had originally!
With the original dial-


New dial swapped in-


With my friend's 7002-7000 (both running Bry's excellent crystals!)

Await some wristies soon!
 
#27 ·
Here it is then, getting some wrist time (and 'air' time)








What's next for the -7290? I had the original 17 jewel 6309 serviced but I thought of getting a 6319 to get the benefit of the jeweled bridges. I've also managed to get a set of hour and minute hands which look genuine and presentable but I prefer the 7C43 style painted hands I've installed. Decisions, decisions! Stay tuned!
 
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