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Discussion Starter #1
Following in DonJ53's footsteps, I picked up this very nice 5126-8100 off the SCWF Trading Post from Seiko Hoarder. The watch is in overall excellent condition and comes on its original Seiko 5 Sports bracelet. Upon initial baseline test my Timegrapher showed nothing but snow. A quick run over the demagnetizer and everything was back in order. Initial tests show the watch running around +17 sec/d at 217 amplitude with 1.7 ms beat error. Planning a full tear down and rebuild of the case and movement. Thanks for looking.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New crystal ? It looks in very good condition.
The crystal is passable but has a few light scratches and nicks. Hard to see in the pics against the dark dial, but they are there. I am sure it could easily be polished out with the right tools. I am going to put in a new one and keep the old one as a backup.

Don - You were not kidding when you said this movement has hundreds of parts and small springs. This one is certainly going to challenge my abilities. Toughest movement I have attempted to service thus far. I took lots of pics. Fingers crossed I can get it all back together. The keyless works alone must have had a dozen parts. An engineering marvel but overly complicated in my opinion.
 

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The crystal is passable but has a few light scratches and nicks. Hard to see in the pics against the dark dial, but they are there. I am sure it could easily be polished out with the right tools. I am going to put in a new one and keep the old one as a backup.

Don - You were not kidding when you said this movement has hundreds of parts and small springs. This one is certainly going to challenge my abilities. Toughest movement I have attempted to service thus far. I took lots of pics. Fingers crossed I can get it all back together. The keyless works alone must have had a dozen parts. An engineering marvel but overly complicated in my opinion.



Top tip; don't take the keyless work apart. If it's clean there is no need to :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Top tip; don't take the keyless work apart. If it's clean there is no need to :)
Sorry Paul, already apart. As I was disassembling, I kept asking myself what I had I gotten myself into. I took lots of pictures along the way so hopefully I can get it back together. Don did an excellent job of posting sequential pictures of his disassembly and assembly. I will post some pictures of the inner layers of the keyless works as well as the automatic winding mechanism on the motion side in hopes that it will aid others in the future.
 

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Top tip; don't take the keyless work apart. If it's clean there is no need to :)
I see no reason to cut corners, without taking it apart you have no idea what the underside of the parts look like. Many I have taken apart that looked fantastic and found corrosion starting on the hidden side. One spec of corrosion grows and can contaminate the rest of the parts.
 

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If you need more pics, here's a slide show I posted of one of mine. The 2nd half is the front side with a piece by piece showing of the keyless assembly.

 

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I see no reason to cut corners, without taking it apart you have no idea what the underside of the parts look like. Many I have taken apart that looked fantastic and found corrosion starting on the hidden side. One spec of corrosion grows and can contaminate the rest of the parts.





Not taking keyless work apart is NOT cutting corners.

I have never seen rust under say the set lever that did not have it on the top (I have seen it on the top lots of times when there was none under it).

There is NO good reason to take keyless work apart if it is cleaned well and works fine :)


Do it if you like of course.....
 

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Not taking keyless work apart is NOT cutting corners.

I have never seen rust under say the set lever that did not have it on the top (I have seen it on the top lots of times when there was none under it).

There is NO good reason to take keyless work apart if it is cleaned well and works fine :)


Do it if you like of course.....
If you don't take it apart then how do you know? Repairing something on what looks good is one thing, but IMO, if you take a watch apart that far to do a full service, there's no reason not to go all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So I was messing around last night in my workshop and got to thinking about DonJ53's posts regarding lapping his 5126-8100 crystal with diamond lapping paste and brass nut. While I have ordered a new crystal for my project I thought I would experiment a bit. The crystal on my watch is in decent shape, but has few noticeable light scratches and a number of pock marks visible to the naked eye when viewing the crystal behind a shop light.

In looking at what I had around the shop that might be used for polishing, I found in my Dremel polishing kit a couple of the compound impregnated polishing heads. These are used for light to fine metal polishing and are pretty dense to the touch. They also have a flat head felt surface with no screw or metal protruding through the top. I thought, let me try and see what this would do to my crystal so I set about using various compounds I had for my cars. Polywatch did not do much. I tried some Wolfgangs glass spot removing polish and this worked a bit. I then got more aggressive and tried some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound I had laying around for removing heavily oxidized paint. Believe it or not, this was working. Using a dab about the size of a dime on the surface of the crystal with the dremel polishing head at low to medium speed working in small concentric circles on the surface of the crystal was actually removing the scratches. I worked on it for about 45 minutes and got the crystal to the point were the optical clarity was excellent with no visible scratches or marks when viewed behind a shop light. When viewing light off the surface of the crystal, I could still see some signs of pocking and scratches but greatly reduced. I am sure with some diamond cutting paste or lapping paste the crystal would come back to near perfect. Just wanted to share this with the group for the DIY set.
 

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If you don't take it apart then how do you know? Repairing something on what looks good is one thing, but IMO, if you take a watch apart that far to do a full service, there's no reason not to go all the way.





Let's take this to the nth degree shall we?


Push every jewel out in case one is loose, prise off every indice on the dial in case one may get loose in the future, unscrew the crown off the stem.....


A line needs to be drawn occasionally and I draw mine at NOT needlessly pulling apart the keyless work for NO good reason :)
 

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We are talking about parts that are held together by one or two screws and maybe a spring...what's so time consuming about that.
 

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Let's take this to the nth degree shall we?


Push every jewel out in case one is loose, prise off every indice on the dial in case one may get loose in the future, unscrew the crown off the stem.....


A line needs to be drawn occasionally and I draw mine at NOT needlessly pulling apart the keyless work for NO good reason :)
We've been through this before with you, do what you want with your watches, but don't pass along bad advice.
 

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that's looks fantastic John. Nice work you are doing ....
 
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