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· Special Member
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702 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Accuracy is out, +30mn / 24 hours, the movement is a 6R15C .... not the best SEIKO movement imho.
What other movement can I install, a NH35? I' d like to use the 6R15 rotor because it' s very well made.

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· Craftsman
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4,331 Posts
+30 in/24hr. Sounds like your watch is magnetized.

You can check it with a compass. If it is magnetized I'd try to demagnetize it first.
 

· Special Member
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6,598 Posts
I would try the demag as suggested or have it serviced to keep the 6R15. Swapping it out for a NH35 is a downgrade. The cost of a NH35 movement and having it swapped out would probably be close to the cost of a service anyway.
 

· Registered
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47 Posts
I've been disappointed with my Alpinist as well. I only get about 35 hours of power reserve on mine. It's been back to Seiko under warranty for a large piece lint in the date window, time keeping out of spec, and poor reserve. They removed the lint, and regulated it so it is quite accurate, but they didn't seem to address the power reserve. 35 hours of power reserve from a movement rated at 50 is pretty disappointing, and my SKX007 lasts noticeably longer.
 

· First Lady
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3,400 Posts
Yup! It’s probably magnetized. I have heard more than a few complaints about this movement, but the 5 or 6 in my collection are all fine. I would have it serviced, rather than swap in a cheaper movement.

Kat
 

· Registered
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168 Posts
nh35 swap is a bad idea. Its like you're turning a collectable seiko into a depreciated noname micorbrand or homage. It will also cause a disclosure problem for any and all resales in the future. I would personally be pissded if i found a generic 65$ Hattori movement in place of the genuine, largely irreplaceable 200$ original. Regardless of what you think if it's current performance.

If it's running very fast it could very well be magnetized. It could also be debris or oil caught in the hairspring, effectively shorting the rotational distance of the balance. Putting it on a timegrapher would be helpful. Personally, I don't think power reserve matters with an automatic if you are of course wearing it. Manual winding yes, PR matters a lot. The issue may have to do with either the mainspring slipping in the barrel too much which a barrel service would correct. Conversely it could use a cleaning as it may be stopping too easily as the result of friction along the train and/or escapement. Either way sounds like it's time for a service. Maybe time to find a good local watchmaker.
 

· Special Member
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9,705 Posts
I respect the OP's right to do what he wants with his watch. If and when he chooses to sell it, he can show a photograph of it and call it out and fully disclose it and be transparent and so forth. I gave him the benefit of the doubt to do the right thing if and when a sale ever happens.

And even if he didn't, it's a minefield buying used watches. When I buy a watch that I have not seen a photograph of the movement or had it described, I know I am aking a risk. And you better believe I price it accordingly assuming the worst.

I've seen more than my fair share of Mercedes S-Classes running on Cooper tires! What am I going to do, leave a note under his windshield wiper?
 

· Registered
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168 Posts
I've seen more than my fair share of Mercedes S-Classes running on Cooper tires! What am I going to do, leave a note under his windshield wiper?
OP is asking for guidance, it isn't unsolicited. It's like if I asked, "Grammar, my AMG tires are going bald, these Coopers are the right size will they work? And I think I can mount them myself... "

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