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I rebuilt a rotor bearing today.

1638 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  ShaikCorso
So... apparently you aren't supposed to be able to do that or even change the bearing in things like the 7SXX. I did both, on a 7015 rotor. Basically, the inner diameter of the bearing (where it's threaded) is about .05 or some mm larger on the 7015. Needless to say I ruined a top plate before I broke out the micrometer. The difference is so small there is no way to tell without measuring the post or ruining parts (got both those covered).

Anyways, I digress. I was trying another rotor because the teeth on the bearing for the one in the 7015 were rusted away total. So, given the (7015) threaded inner was the right size I cut the race with the bad teeth off it, saved the bearings and then disassembled a 7S26 bearing, saving the outer race, bearings and keeper. It was just a matter of laying the bearings onto the inner race while it was in the outer, centering carefully, then pressing the collar back on. Just that easy.... Hope this can help someone else. :)
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It's always great when you can save a part that would otherwise be garbage. If you have the patience and a little ingenuity you be amazed at how many things that are listed as "not serviceable" can be repaired. One trick to use when trying to keep those small ball bearing in place while you are fitting the outer race is to use a bit of petroluim jelly. Just dab some one the bearing and put it in place on the inner race and it will keep it from moving. Once you get it all together a little solvent will weash the jelly out of the bearing so you can put the proper lube. Its and old mechanics trick we used when rebuilding the valve body of automatic transmissions. they use a series of small check balls in what looks like an aluminum maze. The jelly would keep them from moving around and falling out while you rebuild the valve body.

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Good call man, I totally forgot about that from my days as a mechanic. Glad to see I'm not the only one on here!
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