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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To my untrained eye, the dial appears original. I don’t normally buy anything from South America, but the price asked is more than fair. What do you guys think?










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Hey Kat - actually South America can be a good region to look, you just have to be careful like anywhere else.

I can't tell from the photos on my computer (the resolution is a little fuzzy), but it looks like the tic marks on the subdial don't extend all the way to the edge. If this is the case then that is an aftermarket dial. The daywheel is Roman English which is pretty rare.

What is the date on the watch back? I can't read the numbers.

Here is what a late gold dial should look like. See how the tic marks work on the subdial?
 

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Bracelet and bezel are AM for sure. Dial is really hard to tell from the pics but the lume looks kind of plasticy which isnt a good sign. Generally i'd avoid all watches from South America too.
 

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Might be cos I'm on the Mobile phone but the subdial markers at the bottom don't reach the edge of the circle. That means AM right?
 

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Looks to me like aftermarket dial, inner bezel, outer bezel, and possibly bracelet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'll be the first to admit I know little to nothing about hese(and most things) but I thought the dials hands and INR were genuine....even the lume has some blackening?

I dunno...what's wrong with the dial here?


I thought the same. I knew the bezel insert and bracelet were replacements, but that doesn’t bother me. I noticed the inner chapter ring has faded from the sun, which is what happens with these, and some slight deterioration around the edges of the lower seconds register.


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That's a an old type AM inner ring, the colour looks more orange than yellow. The genuine doesn't turn orange like that from fading.

The dial and hands could be original but it looks like the numbers and markers on the subdial have been reprinted. They do not match the genuine.

Edit: actually on second thought that dial is AM with forced patina, made to look like a genuine.


 

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Yes, nice job putting them side by side - the fonts are off and you can clearly see where the tic marks don’t go all the way to the rim of the subdial. For some reason the AM dials haven’t mastered this although for the silver dials it’s getting harder to tell.

The forced patina is new to me. Wow, that is pretty good. Here is s better dial shot of my late gold dial.




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Discussion Starter #12
This is why I posted the question. Thanks, guys.


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Yes, nice job putting them side by side - the fonts are off and you can clearly see where the tic marks don’t go all the way to the rim of the subdial. For some reason the AM dials haven’t mastered this although for the silver dials it’s getting harder to tell.

The forced patina is new to me. Wow, that is pretty good. Here is s better dial shot of my late gold dial.




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That is simply breathtaking and beautiful shots. I'm in the process of getting a yellow 6139-6002 sorted. Needs a better bezel/insert which is proving hard to get. It's crazy how the AM'ers are taking it a step further. I wonder what that dial would have to go through the get that kind of corrosion, I thought that took years!
 

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That is simply breathtaking and beautiful shots. I'm in the process of getting a yellow 6139-6002 sorted. Needs a better bezel/insert which is proving hard to get. It's crazy how the AM'ers are taking it a step further. I wonder what that dial would have to go through the get that kind of corrosion, I thought that took years!


Thank you very much! I’m wearing it again today. It’s interesting too that the later gold dials seem to be more honey-gold and the Pogue Resist ones are more on the yellow side. I’m always on the lookout for a true Pogue Resist watch but I don’t like the prices right now and I keep buying other chronos that I like.

But at some point when do the AM parts become so good that it’s ok to consider them? And yes that was a lot of patina!


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Thank you very much! I’m wearing it again today. It’s interesting too that the later gold dials seem to be more honey-gold and the Pogue Resist ones are more on the yellow side. I’m always on the lookout for a true Pogue Resist watch but I don’t like the prices right now and I keep buying other chronos that I like.

But at some point when do the AM parts become so good that it’s ok to consider them? And yes that was a lot of patina!


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Speaking of true Pogue resist, there was one that sold for approx $235 on ebay US less than a week ago. Looked like BIN listing but that's a new record low imo. Still plenty around just need to download your existence on eBay and pounce on the opportunity lol.
 

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What?? How did I miss this???

Ur right, I need to put my profile in.

Kat- this is a great example of the type of watch to look for. I’ll troll eBay for some good examples and give you a heads up. Then one of the restoration guys here can help you out with getting it back to its glory!


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Well the guys have really nailed it. So I'd just add

Look closely at the indices on 10 1 2 and 5. The illumination plots are unevenly shaped. And my own experience with the 6002 (see my avatar) is that the lume ages to a different shade of white.
 
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Hey Kat, so this is on eBay now. It has all the hallmarks of an honest watch including lots of old DNA, everything looks original, great original looking lume, and I can’t see any polishing. The photos are very amateur and it’s claimed to be a one owner watch. The problem is that they want too much for it. IMHO if you could get this for $500 or less you would get a good example. If it’s as clean as it looks, then you might get a restoration done in the $300 range.

What do all y’all think?




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I agree entirely, Tod ... looks like a pretty good watch, but they’re asking far too much. By way of reference, there was a 6139-6005 recently that I almost bid on, as it looked like a decent restoration candidate. It sold yesterday for $367 ... I think it might’ve gone higher if the auction had ended on a weekend:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey Kat, so this is on eBay now. It has all the hallmarks of an honest watch including lots of old DNA, everything looks original, great original looking lume, and I can’t see any polishing. The photos are very amateur and it’s claimed to be a one owner watch. The problem is that they want too much for it. IMHO if you could get this for $500 or less you would get a good example. If it’s as clean as it looks, then you might get a restoration done in the $300 range.

What do all y’all think?




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I made a low ball offer. He has a 0 feedback score, so maybe he will take it.


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