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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There, that's better (don't worry, easily put back to original)...Did I scare you? :-\
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Isthmus said:
LOL - To me they suggest Ikea, and the little plastic baggies filled with allen bolts and a single wimpy key to tighten them all with. :-[
Too funny. IMO the phillips screws are more durable too. Those allen screws are very easy to strip if you don't use just the right key/wrench. The keys are made to such wide tolerances IMO that you really have to be careful to use one that fits very snuggly. If you're going to be removing the shroud a lot (for cleaning perhaps), I'd recomend this change.
 

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Aurelius said:
Too funny. IMO the phillips screws are more durable too. Those allen screws are very easy to strip if you don't use just the right key/wrench. The keys are made to such wide tolerances IMO that you really have to be careful to use one that fits very snuggly. If you're going to be removing the shroud a lot (for cleaning perhaps), I'd recomend this change.
Hello, Aurelius. Once again, congrats for buying your grail, bro!

About removing the shroud for cleaning purposes, it's interesting to note that SEIKO never advised this to be necessary for the tunas. This is not mentioned in any instructions manual for this watch, at the maintainence advices part. I wouldn't touch the shroud if I were you, unless it would be extremely necessary (like in case of damage, for instance). All of my tunas never had their shrouds' cherries broken, so to speak (LOL)!
 

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I have seen pictures of Tunas that suffered from nasty corrosion of the case in the area covered by the shroud.
It may actually be a good idea to take the shroud off once a year or so to make sure this does not happen.
I assume this is more likely to be a problem with watches that are exposed to salt water.

Oh, and by the way: Congrats on the Tuna!
 

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dschaen81 said:
I have seen pictures of Tunas that suffered from nasty corrosion of the case in the area covered by the shroud.
It may actually be a good idea to take the shroud off once a year or so to make sure this does not happen.
I assume this is more likely to be a problem with watches that are exposed to salt water.
Bingo!

And if I'm allowed to elaborate a bit more on your assertive, I would say that those watches that shown corrosion cases were exposed to salty water and were not thoroughly rinsed, cleaned and dry with a towel or soft cloth, afterwards. And that doesn't require shroud removal, or else the manufacturer would advise this specifically on the owner's maintainace manual, and they do not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Chris said:
Hello, Aurelius. Once again, congrats for buying your grail, bro!

About removing the shroud for cleaning purposes, it's interesting to note that SEIKO never advised this to be necessary for the tunas. This is not mentioned in any instructions manual for this watch, at the maintainence advices part. I wouldn't touch the shroud if I were you, unless it would be extremely necessary (like in case of damage, for instance). All of my tunas never had their shrouds' cherries broken, so to speak (LOL)!
Thanks again Chris. I'm loving this watch. No, I agree the shroud doesn't need to come off and mine probably won't come off again. I'm just saying that those allen screws are REALLY easy to strip. All it takes is one time with a key made to imprecise tolerances. I did the same screw swap on my Sawtooth and stripped one just by looking at it wrong (exagerating). Then I needed a screw extractor to get it out and that was a tense moment, let me tell you!
I just didn't like the look of the allen screws, plain and simple. It was a tough decision to"pop the shrouds cherry" as you say but in the end I'm glad I did. Because now, for me, the watch is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
bparker170 said:
hi,may i ask where you got the replacement screws,i'd love to mod my tuna in the same way i really don't like the allen bolts.....thanks.
I purchased them at a local specialty fastner store (they had to order them).
They're M2.5 x 4.5 Marine Grade (18.8 Stainless steel Philips head screws. The heads were actually a liittle too big so I wound the threads with a strip of paper, chucked it in an electric drill and then held 600grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper to the heads while the drill spun. This reduced them enough to work perfectly. This was a little fiddly but I paid $1.57 for a dozen screws verses the $30 for three that Seiko charges.
Hope that helps.
Original Seiko ones can be purchased from Yobokies.
 

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While I think it looks nice now (though I also think it looked nice with the stock screws), just a FYI: in general, Allen heads are way more difficult to strip then Phillips heads. But in terms of "stripping resistance" nothing beats Torx heads.
 
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