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Authored by: stockae92

I don't know if anybody's wondering about the size of a CitizenAqualand Classic II (JP2000-08E), but here are some measurement of thewatch by ruler (so they are not accurate to 0.01mm
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  • Bezel: 38mm
    Crystal: 30.5mm
    Case width 2 to 8: 46mm (not include buttons)
    Case width 3 to 9: 51mm (not include crown)
    Top to bottom: 48mm
    Height: 14.5mm
    Lug size: 24mm
I can't find much review / owner opinion of this watch. But fromthe limited threads I found on the web, it seems like most owners arepretty happy with it and they don't show up in the pre-owned market toooften. My guess is either the owners like their watch so much that theydon't flip it or the owners are real divers (non-WIS) and are too busygoing out diving.


My initial impression about the watch is that it wears very well forthe 51mm case size. The 24mm lug size is a good proportion to thewatch's case size. The original strap is thick but the "wave" portionmakes it flexible enough to wear. I might change it to another lowerprofile rubber strap later on to give it a lower profile look. Thewatch is 100% unique tool style and you won't mistake it as dressywatch or Rolex Sub.

Given the smaller bezel size (38mm), the bigger crystal (30.5mm) andcase (51mm) size made up for the over all big-watch feel. The metalbuttons are big and easy to operate. The side of the bezel and crownare kurled to make it easy to grap and turn. The crown tube is thickand the crown screw down with no drama.

The crystal is mineral with no AR coating. Bezel has 60 clicks withfirm action. The bezel's lume dot is on the small side, I wished thedot is a little bigger (my personal favourite is lumed triangle onMarathon SAR). Kudos to Citizen's build quality and QC, the bezel linesup correctly with and the second hand ticks right on the minute markers.

The analog and digital time keeping is separate so you have to set thetime separately. This one won't be my travel watch cause I certainlydon't want to change the time twice when I cross into another timezone. LOL
One thing that ties them together is when performing a master reset.You have to pull the crown all the way out, then press all 3 buttons,release and then push the crown in.

The time is easy to read with a relatively clean dial with big hrmarkers and very differently shaped hr and min hands. And thefluorescent orange minute hand just "pop" from the matt black dial (Ican imagine this is good for diver under water timing with the bezel).

The hour markers has a large real estate for lume material. The lumematerial itself is off-green (SL C3 grade?) and gives off green colorlight in the dark. I *tested* the lume at night and the time was easyto read at after 4:30am (went to bed at around 12:00am) and I wouldimagine it will last longer into the dark. So the lume is good for me.

Compare the lume with a Seiko 300m Tuna (SBBN007), Aqualand classic II's lume is more "angry" in the dark. 300m Tuna looks a little moredefined. The Aqualand's lume is green-sh in day light while the ones on300m Tuna looks much much "whiter". Both are easy to read in 5am(lights turned off at around 12am).

The digital portion is big enough to be read easily without overpowering the dial. It is without EL of any kind. So there's no luckreading it in the dark without an external light source. The analobgminute hand seems a little small but it is unobstructive to the digitaldisplay most of the time, which is a good thing.

The 1/100 sec chronograph only counts to 99 min 59 + 99/100 second. Thethe chronograph will show 1/100 sec accuracy when the timing is below60 seconds. After that, the chronograph will show minute + second(mm:ss), but it will continue to measure with 1/100 sec accuracy. Whenyou stop the chronograph, the display will alternate between minute +second (mm:ss) and 1/100 second.

When the chronograph reaches 99min 99sec, i * think* it will just stop,and it will return to regular time keeping after a while.

This model with screwdown caseback uses only one (1) battery for bothanalog and digital function. According to the manual, it does have aEnd of Life (EOL) indicator of two (2) seconds jump for the secondhand. In the EOL mode, the dive mode and alarm function will bedisabled.

The digital depth meter is as useful to me as a Helium escape valvesince the deepest I would go is the bottom of a pool. Since I am not adiver, I am not going go into the dive mode function. I will leave thatto people with actual diving experience.

What I wished for are drilled lugs, a bezel with more shoulder or*edge/teeth* (so that its easier to grip, make it 40mm and like theMarathon SAR's bezel), and the second hand to be painted (so that itstands out some what more, to make it easier for me to time my intervalevent).

Otherwise, I can't complain too much. (Ok, I wished that thechronograph will count to 24hr too, as is, it only has a 99 min chrono.And a Pro Master signed crown would be nice too)

One interesting thing is that the manual warned about using the bottonsunder water, except for the top right hand corner one (for the divemode). I wonder if the seal for that particular button is special? OrCitizen just want to advise the owner to minimize the use of buttonsunder water.





a different strap, lower profile than the stock thick rubber strap





Two "bad" lume shots




 

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I LOVE that model! It's my favorite style watch of all time. I remember seeing these back in the late 80s and totally drooling over them. They had an all silver and a silver/gold model.

I'm actually on the hunt for the reissue like your there. I'd prefer to have the more traditional round case back. Hey... sell me yours! ;) kidding!

Very nice watch and nice review btw!
 
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