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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I'm new here today but have been learning from this forum for years, working on watches. Regarding Japanese watches, I have a Seiko Chrono 6139, a Seiko Diver 6309, and a Seiko KS 5246, all working nicely.

I have had my eye on the original Citizen Aqualands for a while and finally got one for cheap recently, my 1st Citizen. The bezel and crystal are a bit rough but the gold trim against silver still looks great. The seller had no idea if it worked. I put new batteries in it when I got it, and the analog started right up. The LCD display has never worked. With the many photos from this site, I took the movement layers apart and gently cleaned everything. The PCB looked pretty good compared to other photos I've seen. The batteries didn't show any sign of leaking but a few of the contacts had some green oxidation that I removed without altering the gold traces.

The LCD display had a few spots of clear area in it towards the top. The rubber base mat, the thin strip, and the plate that is white on one side and black on the other side looked fine. I did clean the contacts in that area. I put it all back together without losing the springs...thank God! The analog still works but the LCD still doesn't fire up. Should I be checking for resistance on the 3V digital circuit? Do the clear zones on the LCD glass mean that needs to be changed? Any ideas are very welcome. If I have to live with it as it is now that's fine, no problem, but if someone knows the fix I will do it.

Thanks All, James
 

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I don't think the lcd is suppose to look like that(negative display) when it's off. Looks like the crystal substrate is damaged and the entire display will need to be replaced.

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk
 

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That's a good point about it not supposed to be dark when off. I took it apart again and split the lcd display apart. It seems like the back polarizer had been reversed. When I flipped it, the display became clear. I also noticed the shadows from each side lined up as opposed to before. I put it back together like that but I still don't get anything in the display when the batteries are put in. My guess is I need to replace the display with a good one. I think the 3V for digital is working since I get the beep when I hold the 3 buttons together for the reset, but I'm sure if the voltages are making it to the display. Analog still working fine. I showed a picture with the display clear now.
 

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I took it apart again and checked if the zebra strip was put in correctly. Over the years they tend to develop a slight indentation memory on one side where they touch the PCB raised contacts. I made sure it was in the correct orientation but the display still did not turn on. The analog still works fine so I will be looking for a LCD replacement now.
 

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I took it apart again and checked if the zebra strip was put in correctly. Over the years they tend to develop a slight indentation memory on one side where they touch the PCB raised contacts. I made sure it was in the correct orientation but the display still did not turn on. The analog still works fine so I will be looking for a LCD replacement now.
Hi ,
That looks quite good for condition of the watch.
I have many of these and work on them too.
Does the Analog work good all the time...?? Since you stripped it apart did the ....PCB Board look like the Gold Contact Areas have all their condition looking good....??
The ...Digital Screen has these parts on it ,
... Plastic View Window / The Reflector Plate / The Foam Backing.
Can you post a a good picture of .... The PCB Board separated from the Main Movement Back Part.
What I mean is the ... Rear Part Split Open to see the
Board.
Louis / LongBike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Louis,
Thanks for responding. I have read many of your posts on this watch before I opened it up, and I appreciate your knowledge of it.
Since my last post a few days ago the analog has kept perfect time. It is within a half second of where I set it a few days ago. I have taken it completely apart 3 times this week, and since there were so many pictures of the movement and layers on this website, I never took a picture inside (but I should have). One thing I didn't mention about this watch is that when I got it and unscrewed the crown to try setting it, the crown completely unscrewed from the case, and I realized the stem was broken off from the crown. So I set it by turning the minute hand (very slowly) with a dull toothpick a few minutes ahead of the actual time, and put the analog battery in at precisely the correct second from my atomic clock app. I know this is a no-no for the gears but I do it really slow and without rapid accelerations.
So my 1st question is: my downloaded instruction manual says to pull out the crown and press all 3 buttons at once which beeps and resets the watch, but does the insertion of the digital batteries turn the digital display on? or does the action of pulling the stem and pressing the buttons to get the beep turn the digital display on? The reason I ask is that since the stem is broken and always in the pushed-in position, maybe this is the reason I see no digital display? I don't think so but I thought I would confirm with you.
To answer your question the contact pads look very good to me. When I take it apart again I will take pictures and post them. I am hesitant to take it apart again, since the last time I did it, the 2 plastic pins that hold the loose/separate contact for one of the digital batteries both broke off. So I glued those pins into the PCB, and cut the plastic flush on the reverse side of the PCB, and installed the loose/separate digital contact onto them, verifying contacts were made, and the beep was heard later when all 3 reset buttons were pressed .
Regarding the LCD, as I mentioned in the previous post I split the "Plastic View Window" exposing the the 2 layer of it. In the position they were originally in, the display was polarizing dark. When I flipped the reverse polarizing layer the "Plastic View Window" became clear, as it is in my latest post photo on my arm. However, once you split a LCD I'm really not sure if it will function again, and it's hard for me to believe somebody would have split them before me to make it dark, so I think the LCD just went bad over the years (please correct me if my assumption is wrong). This is why I am leaning towards waiting to open it up again until I can find another LCD (cheap, since the watch cost me very little to start with), or just living with it as an analog watch as-is. I live in Arizona now (low visibility lakes), long way away from California where I used to dive in my youth, so it is fine for now for just swimming. Thanks for your time here Louis!
Jim
 

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Louis,
Thanks for responding. I have read many of your posts on this watch before I opened it up, and I appreciate your knowledge of it.
Since my last post a few days ago the analog has kept perfect time. It is within a half second of where I set it a few days ago. I have taken it completely apart 3 times this week, and since there were so many pictures of the movement and layers on this website, I never took a picture inside (but I should have). One thing I didn't mention about this watch is that when I got it and unscrewed the crown to try setting it, the crown completely unscrewed from the case, and I realized the stem was broken off from the crown. So I set it by turning the minute hand (very slowly) with a dull toothpick a few minutes ahead of the actual time, and put the analog battery in at precisely the correct second from my atomic clock app. I know this is a no-no for the gears but I do it really slow and without rapid accelerations.
So my 1st question is: my downloaded instruction manual says to pull out the crown and press all 3 buttons at once which beeps and resets the watch, but does the insertion of the digital batteries turn the digital display on? or does the action of pulling the stem and pressing the buttons to get the beep turn the digital display on? The reason I ask is that since the stem is broken and always in the pushed-in position, maybe this is the reason I see no digital display? I don't think so but I thought I would confirm with you.
To answer your question the contact pads look very good to me. When I take it apart again I will take pictures and post them. I am hesitant to take it apart again, since the last time I did it, the 2 plastic pins that hold the loose/separate contact for one of the digital batteries both broke off. So I glued those pins into the PCB, and cut the plastic flush on the reverse side of the PCB, and installed the loose/separate digital contact onto them, verifying contacts were made, and the beep was heard later when all 3 reset buttons were pressed .
Regarding the LCD, as I mentioned in the previous post I split the "Plastic View Window" exposing the the 2 layer of it. In the position they were originally in, the display was polarizing dark. When I flipped the reverse polarizing layer the "Plastic View Window" became clear, as it is in my latest post photo on my arm. However, once you split a LCD I'm really not sure if it will function again, and it's hard for me to believe somebody would have split them before me to make it dark, so I think the LCD just went bad over the years (please correct me if my assumption is wrong). This is why I am leaning towards waiting to open it up again until I can find another LCD (cheap, since the watch cost me very little to start with), or just living with it as an analog watch as-is. I live in Arizona now (low visibility lakes), long way away from California where I used to dive in my youth, so it is fine for now for just swimming. Thanks for your time here Louis!
Jim
Aloha Sir,
Hi Jim,
Well good to hear from you and thanks for the ....Detail Posting Back which many
do not do and then its hard to help when needed. The Digital Screen should be
clear always and if not then it is .....Damaged. As for the Crown It is a Pressured one
and Screw In. If the Broken Stem is in the ..... Working Position then you will be just
fine for now. Just make sure the Crown is on tight so moisture does not get in.
The Digital should work with a .....New Screen if the PCB Board is good.
I have a Cousin that lives in Goodyear , Arizona yet and I am from Honolulu,Hawaii
but form the Big Island originally.
I lived in ....... Southern California for about ....... 25 years or so and My wife is from
.... San, Pedro California. I foled around with a lot of .... ustom Car work and
Drag Racing with some of the older teams fro .... 1968 to around 1980's +.

Ok Jim is this Aqualand a ....Black /Gold .....or ... Silver one.
Also can you get the Broken Stem out of the Crown yet if not it will be Ok.
_
Tell you what Jim Give me your ..... >>> Postal Address and I will send you
......A Crown / Stem / A Digital Screen Set Up .....to use and I have spares here.
No Problem just ...FREE BEE'S ....OK.
Aloha Sir,
Louis / Longbike from Hawaii
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Louis,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Mine is the silver with gold accents, the crown is gold colored. The stem is broken just inside the crown so I don't think I can get the broken part out to save the crown. I will try to send you a private message with my address. Please let me know that you got it.

Back in the 80's I went to O'aho a few times. Really enjoyed snorkeling in Hanauma Bay, and on the north side there was this amazing restaurant on the water I remember called Crouching Lion. They had a tsunami warning while we were there in Waikiki. We drove up to Diamondhead so we could watch the wave come in .... there must have been 100 surfers all waiting for the wave ... but it didn't amount to more than a few 3 to 4 foot waves. Goodyear AZ is a nice place, they also have a great motocross track called ACP. I spent 20 years doing engineering in the CA Bay Area, lived on my sailboat in Moss Landing for a few years and met my wife in Carpinteria (SoCal) while working there. Diving and sailing in the Monterey Bay was fantastic.

Thanks for your help with this watch. I will enjoy it for many years.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Louis,
Thank you very much for the parts. I have it all put back together now and it looks to be working great! The broken stem came out easily and the good stem and crown went in without any issue. The four gold pressure sensor springs and alarm spring went back in ok as well. I have attached a few photos of it taken apart. I haven't had it deeper than 1 meter yet but next time I go to the lake I will dive down and check that out. I should enjoy it for many years now and I will be on the lookout for the correct band. Thanks again,
Jim
 

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I wanted to added another update regarding the dive meter system. When I tried the reassembled watch in my pool yesterday it was in the Max Depth Memory mode, so it never moved off zero. I read the manual again for the dive system and realized I needed to hit the S button (upper left) to get it to switch to the depth meter mode. In that mode it blinks zero. I took it to the bottom of my pool which is only 5 feet in depth and it measured 2.5 meters (it's a CO22 which is in meters). But when I brought it to the surface it settled on 1.0 meters, not zero. So the difference is 1.5 meters which is 59 inches or 4.92 feet which is pretty close to 5 feet. From what I gather from the manual, the memory will be updated when the dive meter goes lower than 1 meter again, then those new depths and times will be stored as memory. Anyway, I am quite impressed by this technology for the 1980's. Back then I had dive friends using this watch (although they still had separate depth meters with them), but I didn't pay to much attention. I was using a trusty Heuer Monnin and paper dive tables/log book. I think Citizen did "amazing" back then to introduce this technology, and the electronics still works today, 35 years later!
 
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