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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to replicate the brushed finish on one of my 6309-7040s and am not having too good of success. The finish I'm ending up with is more of a smooth look rather then the actual brushed finish that is OEM
Am I using the wrong grit of wet/dry perhaps?
What should I be starting out with and what should I end up finishing it with?
TIA
 

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I've been playing a lot with brushed finishes. The best results I've had is with
a kitchen green scotch pad If you cut the pad about 2cm square, then use your thumb
to follow the contour of the bezel or crystal edge. I have had very good OEM type finishes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
georgelazenby said:
I've been playing a lot with brushed finishes. The best results I've had is with
a kitchen green scotch pad If you cut the pad about 2cm square, then use your thumb
to follow the contour of the bezel or crystal edge. I have had very good OEM type finishes.
Thanks! I have tried just about everything EXCEPT for the green scotch pad! Couldnt hurt to try it on one of my beaters first!
 

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I used 180 ore 240 grit on my 6309-7040.
Glued a bolt to an old case back and used my drill to get the brushings to look right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
69variant said:
I used 180 ore 240 grit on my 6309-7040.
Glued a bolt to an old case back and used my drill to get the brushings to look right.
I would think that 180 or even 240 might be kinda rough?
 

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With the scotch pad you need to hold it rigid under your thumb
and try to move the pad in a one direction push type motion
Too much to and fro and you get crossings in your finish. try it you can get some
good results. Also a quick light over polish with brasso ties everything together nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
georgelazenby said:
With the scotch pad you need to hold it rigid under your thumb
and try to move the pad in a one direction push type motion
Too much to and fro and you get crossings in your finish. try it you can get some
good results. Also a quick light over polish with brasso ties everything together nice.
When you use the scotch brite method do you remove the bezel?
 

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Rene,

As I explained to you last month in an email.....
You want to use 320 wet/dry to replicate factory brushing on a 6309 case. If you plan to use a drill or other powered source for rotating the case while applying the finish....I need to stress that the case should be rotated at a slow speed (30 rpm works best) when applying the finish apply light pressure to the paper otherwise you will round off the case lines and lug horns....Trust me on this..You don't want that case to look like one of Loy's over zealous refinish jobs...once the metal is gone it's toast

Also, I recommend masking off the case sides to prevent any damage to the polished surfaces should you slip the sand paper off target.

Best
Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Shawn,
I looked for your E-mail but I somehow either lost it or deleted it!
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions!
I think later this afternoon I'll get out a few old cases and experiment! :great:
 

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time_watcher said:
When you use the scotch brite method do you remove the bezel?
I find you can use the bezel as a guide. this helps the radial look of the finish.
The beauty of scotch pads is that your not removing valuable metal from the watch.
If your not happy with the result it doesn't take much effort to polish the case and try again.
 

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Are you sure the 6309-704x has brushed finish? I always think that those are smooth machining marks which SEIKO deliberately left there without further finish (brushed). That's why no one can get close to the original finish by brushing. JMO.
 

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When i do them (on my Lathe :) ) i obviously strip the case bare but refit a old crystal retaining ring to protect that area, also with using a lathe i have both hands free which i find helps a lot, with care a good finish near to the original can be obtained (imo).


Also the beauty of holding the case in the lathe means every thing is running true for better results.
 

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I use a lathe too but a woodworking one ;D Tigers right it is great to have your hands free and a tool rest to lean on.


If using wet 'n' dry or silica carbide it is best to use one area only briefly or you do end up polishing and not brushing, I use between 240 and 600 grit depending on the finish required.


Mike
 

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Something else i do is i use a flat piece of metal with a handle on it to hold the wet and dry or emery cloth as imo this gives you more control over what is happening and allows equal pressure to be applied and i find there is no need to mask off any other parts of the case because i am in control of the process were as if you hold the emery in your fingers you could be touching faces you dont want to, just the method i find works for me, obviously what suits one dosent suit another.
 

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You might also check at auto parts stores for a fiber-glass "sanding pen." There are similar sold at watch sites for MUCH more, but they look about the same to me.

:great:
 

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I do have to pipe in with one thing I have noticed on my watch collection.
there is a vast difference in finishes on some watches. I think the sandpaper
method may be too harsh a finish. My Doxa sub has a very slight brush to it
it looks like its there just to take the shine off the stainless steel.
 

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Here a couple of things I have learned the hard way.

  • If you are using wet and dry use it dry this give greater "scratching"
    Any sandpaper will start off rough and then will become smoother therefore to get an even finish you need to be consistent about your last few strokes in each area
    Only sand in one direction - do not go backwards and forwards (or round and round)
Above all try to be consistent with each stroke.
Chris
 
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