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well cutting a stem is quite easy...i find that making it a little long is always best and i have also found that if u can find a nut that will fit it ...just use that as you guide and remember to gently clean up the end once u cut it...a little practice and patience is key...i have learned the hard way...God Bless,John
 

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Discussion Starter #23
well cutting a stem is quite easy...i find that making it a little long is always best and i have also found that if u can find a nut that will fit it ...just use that as you guide and remember to gently clean up the end once u cut it...a little practice and patience is key...i have learned the hard way...God Bless,John


What do you use to grip the stem when putting on/ off the crown? I'm always worried I'll bend it
 

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well i have found this little trick that works for me...not sure if anyone else has tried this...i find a very small electrical solderless connectors with no coating that is very close in size to place over the stem or anything u want to cut with threads...that way it gives it strength and helps when u cut it too...for something this small...i have also used electrical tape over the unused area and that way u can place it into a nice stable bench vice too...just dont overtape it as it will want to spin...i know they make a stem vise i think it is called...i am sure others will chime in with that they do...hope this helps my friend...God Bless,John
 

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I don't think they will bend. If anything they'll probably snap.

I also use a pin vise to hold for cutting and for threading and unthreading from the crown.





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Discussion Starter #27
Ok thanks guys. Is a dremel tool appropriate with a cutting wheel or is it better to be a bit more delicate with it?
 

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Dremel is fine. I sometimes clean up with a dremel after rough cutting with a tiny end cutters or dikes but usually use needle files. Esslinger has a good how to on how to measure and cut.


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Not a skx, but I dropped one in a snzh55 and it was rather straight forward. However, I cut the supplied stem to match the length of the one from the original 7S36 movt and it came up short. Weird. Had to stop being lazy and actually measure on another stem.


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Hello.
I'm going to replace 7s36 with NH36A on my SNZH55 too :)
Could you tell me if you had to replace date/day wheels as they suggest? I'd rather have those white ones from NH36 cause the original black are not that visible for me.
Also, do I have to buy a new crown or just unscrew the old one and put into the new NH36A stem (after adjusting the length)?
 

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Hello.
I'm going to replace 7s36 with NH36A on my SNZH55 too :)
Could you tell me if you had to replace date/day wheels as they suggest? I'd rather have those white ones from NH36 cause the original black are not that visible for me.
Also, do I have to buy a new crown or just unscrew the old one and put into the new NH36A stem (after adjusting the length)?
Well as the SNZH55 has a 3 o'clock crown the day and date wheels on the NH36 will be fine. As for the crown I'm not sure. When I bought my NH36 from Crystal times it came with a stem in the movement with a plastic crown attached and a spare uncut stem. On the SKX007 the OEM crown/stem is not separable so a new after market crown was needed, I bought the Jumbo crown from Dragon Shrouds. I also found that I didn't need to use/cut down the spare stem as when I removed the plastic crown from the stem in the movement, that stem, which had a short threaded section which projected from a larger diameter shoulder, was exactly the right length for the after market crown in the SKX case.:cool:
 

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What everybody (except one comment) is missing is that you have to take the day wheel off a 7s26 and put it on the NH36 if you want it to line up. It will be high if you just plug and play because of the crown position. So that is an important thing. Otherwise it is pretty easy. Unscrew the crown off the 7s26 stem and line up a new NH36 stem next to it and cut it to size. Then screw the crown back on and you are good to go. The hardest part is that stupid day wheel. If I wasn't intent on keeping the dial on my SKX399 I would just replace the dial with one that didn't have the day so I didn't have to monkey with it, but that's not the plan here. I want my SKX399 to look like an SKX399 only with a better movement and a new crystal.

Anyway, the mod is pretty easy. Easier on watches with the crown already at 3:00, but still fairly straightforward. Just be patient.
 

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I tried doing this on a Gen1 Monster today. Everything went pretty smoothly except, a careless mistake gave me a new (very small) mark on my dial, & I think I touched the hairspring when replacing the movement holder. That was a bummer because now the new movement seems to not want to run. I think this is a good beginner level project (which I most certainly am), but be careful with that hairspring. Good thing the NH36 movements are relatively cheap and I approached this with the idea of, "I am going to learn how to do something and there's some chance I am going to screw something up." So I wasn't too upset when it happened. Disappointed yes, but I feel pretty confident I'll get it right the next time. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying this on a watch that you care a LOT about (see comment regarding mark on dial), but I bought a few of these Monsters in a lot in pretty poor condition to begin with with the intention of learning some skills. Pretty cool project, but not without some risks.
 

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I tried doing this on a Gen1 Monster today. Everything went pretty smoothly except, a careless mistake gave me a new (very small) mark on my dial, & I think I touched the hairspring when replacing the movement holder. That was a bummer because now the new movement seems to not want to run. I think this is a good beginner level project (which I most certainly am), but be careful with that hairspring. Good thing the NH36 movements are relatively cheap and I approached this with the idea of, "I am going to learn how to do something and there's some chance I am going to screw something up." So I wasn't too upset when it happened. Disappointed yes, but I feel pretty confident I'll get it right the next time. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying this on a watch that you care a LOT about (see comment regarding mark on dial), but I bought a few of these Monsters in a lot in pretty poor condition to begin with with the intention of learning some skills. Pretty cool project, but not without some risks.
What's wrong with the hairspring? Did you mess up the spring? Or did you just touch the balance wheel itself?
 

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What everybody (except one comment) is missing is that you have to take the day wheel off a 7s26 and put it on the NH36 if you want it to line up.
Do the day/date wheels match? When I did my mod and sought advice here, I was told they are different gears/teeth and would need the 4R36-specific 4-O'Clock wheels.
 

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I'm not really sure. I got everything together and then the watch would only run for a 10-20 seconds before stopping. I tried winding it and really could never get it running again. I was pretty sure that I must have touched the hairspring when swapping the plastic movement holder, it was the only reasonable explanation I could come up with.
 

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The same thing happened to me when I swapped movements. When I took the movement out of the case it started working again. From what I can tell the movements are different heights. The height of the 7S26 movement is 4.8 mm and the NH35A movement is 5.32 mm. So the case back is applying pressure to the move to not allowing it work properly.
 

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The same thing happened to me when I swapped movements. When I took the movement out of the case it started working again. From what I can tell the movements are different heights. The height of the 7S26 movement is 4.8 mm and the NH35A movement is 5.32 mm. So the case back is applying pressure to the move to not allowing it work properly.





I've done a few of these swaps and there is never a problem height-wise :)
A case back can usually be slightly domed (as long as it's not glass!) to suit if needed.
 

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The same thing happened to me when I swapped movements. When I took the movement out of the case it started working again. From what I can tell the movements are different heights. The height of the 7S26 movement is 4.8 mm and the NH35A movement is 5.32 mm. So the case back is applying pressure to the move to not allowing it work properly.

Measuring from the top of the winding weight to the top of the plastic dial ring for both mov’ts are 5.32mm. I don’t know why the incorrect measurements you shared keep floating around but they are incorrect, I have physically measured both mov’ts to verify this. Where the height difference exists is on the dial side as the pinion on the forth wheel is longer and places the second hand higher as a result allowing it to contact the underside of the crystal if there isn’t enough clearance.


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This is a standard Seiko 5 with a NH36. I had to swap out the seconds hand pinion with the original 7S26A because the movement was poorly packed and had suffered a hit en route. Everything else is straightforward but mine has a two-piece crown/stem so some trimming was involved anyway.
 

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This is a standard Seiko 5 with a NH36. I had to swap out the seconds hand pinion with the original 7S26A because the movement was poorly packed and had suffered a hit en route. Everything else is straightforward but mine has a two-piece crown/stem so some trimming was involved anyway.





Nice watch & good mod :)
 
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