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I agree on all the discussed points in this section.

Special thanks to Noah for clarify the nomenclatur.

For I'm a more visual/tech guy I have made a new illustration of part no. 981 560:

- see correction after Noah's post -

Best regards, Peter
 

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Excellent work, Peter! I'm impressed, and that diagram will go a long way to help even average collectors understand what the different parts are and how they interact/go together. Would it be possible to name the yellow wheel the "setting wheel"? Only if everyone agrees that would be the clearest name for it- I'm not set on that specific term. Even clearer would be "rocker setting wheel", which would distinguish it from the other setting wheels in the caliber, but that is more cumbersome. I'm thinking that we need to distinguish it from the "corrector wheel" in some way, otherwise it may get confusing in conversation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Fantastic work Peter, many thanks!!!

That diagram will be very valuable for our project IMO.

I will replace the cross-section that is currently in the summary with yours.

@ All:I will update the summary regarding nomenclature based on the decoration shown in Peter's diagram (as suggested by Noah).

Best
Hermann
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
@ Peter: is there any chance you could apply your visualization skills to my "sketch" of the corrector wheel, too?

I would be fantastic to have a more professional drawing for this specific part included, my sketch is quite a bit crude ;-)

That would be most appreciated!

Best
Hermann
 

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Hi Guys,

I'm a little late to the party on this but have some good information on moving towards a permanent solution for the issue. I agree with all the information provided behind the cause. I've seen more black star gears than white, but no real difference in durability.

I've been getting these working again by bonding the star wheel to the gear, which is far from ideal because you lose the safety features, but it has about an 80% success rate. I don't see it more than a basic hack.

I've got some suggestions on how we could reproduce the star wheel in a way that it retains the function including the safety system.

I'm in the 3D printing game but at present the part is too small to reproduce accurately. That said, I can try it anyway but I doubt the resolution I can do will be acceptable. There are new machines on the horizon that should have the resolution to do it but I don't have one yet.

I would suggest looking seriously at photo etching the part. You can get it done in aluminium, copper, brass or stainless steel and that will get the resolution and thickness required to make the part fit the function as stated. There are numerous companies that can do this and it would be cost effective to do.

To replace it, the way I see it, you will need a staking tool. So I'd recommend some sort of exchange service for the part.

Anyway that's my brief thoughts in the first instance.

I can get an ISO rated engineering drawing if we need one done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi Adrian,

thanks for joining in and welcome to the team!

You have raised some VERY interesting ideas above!
We will come to solutions in due course (I hope soon...), let's please do this step-by-step, so the next thing would be finishing "chapter 030" - technical requirements of the solution.

Thanks!
Hermann
 

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Bienvenue à bord, Adrian!
You wrote "at present the part is too small to reproduce accurately" - can you tell me/us the actual resolution of your 3D-printer at present?
Best regards from France, Peter
 
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