How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0) - Seiko & Citizen Watch Forum – Japanese Watch Reviews, Discussion & Trading
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0)

Hello!

With some free time on my hands and bored to death, I managed to come across a VERY cool essay on a How-To tutorial to replace the 1000m Darth Tuna battery.

The author is Derek, and I hope he's fine with me posting this here.

Derek, thank you so much for documenting the process.
Regards,
CHRIS
[color=#804040]Tutorial: Changing a battery on a SBBN011 [table] [tr] [td]
Posted by [color=#a74648]Derek on October 24, 2011 at 10:40 AM
[/td] [td][/td][/tr][/table] Tutorial: Changing the battery in a Darth SBBN011


Though the battery in my SBBN011 is not dead or showing signs of giving up, I don’t know when it was changed, so it could die anytime soon, and as I have the whole day to myself, I thought I would give it a go.



If you are brave enough and have a lot of patience and the right tools then the following might help – but I won’t take any responsibility if you mess up.



Firstly some details on this watch, the model number is SBN0011, 7C46-OAAO. It has a Seiko 7C46, hi-torque 7 jewelled movement designed for the Tuna series of divers. For more interesting information on these movements check out the link below written by Poseidon-Jim…..
[color=#a74648]http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/what-makes-7c46-superior-movement-439547.html


The calibre 7C46 is used in the 600m and 1000m Seiko divers and is designed for use in saturation diving using Helium gas. The one piece case consists of Titanium and Ceramic, there is also some stainless steel in there, but to find out which part contains what; I found this post, by Jim from Sept 2010;

The case is always spoken of by the Japanese as a single unit, but as we know the casei s made up of more than just the body alone. You have the bezel and inner screwdown crystal rings and even an inner iron/SS antimagnetic plate inside theTitanium alloy case, and the shroud screws are IP coated stainless steel or could also be titanium alloy, and you have the inner crown and stem parts that are no doubt Stainless steel.

Titanium is also in the stainless steel family as it is steel, but a hi-grade type that is lighter and harder than stainless steel.

The body or main case is Black IP coated titanium with an TIHCCE (ceramics) shroud.
The bezel I think is either titanium IP coated stainless steel or titanium.

So you see, the whole case or body is actually a mixture of mostly titanium with some stainless steel parts (SS & Titanium) and the shroud is (IPcoated Ti Ceramics).

The battery required for this model is SEIKO SR43SW (301) and should last approximately 5 years, I bought a Maxell from Cousins.

For details on the watch here is a pdf from Seiko
www.seiko.co.uk/page.php?n=168


OK, let’s make a start, what tools for the job? – BTW the hex screws shroud requires a 1.5mm Hex key, Jaxa type case remover, Blade to pop off the bezel, small screwdriver for the battery retaining screw, case/movement holder.

Pic 1 –Remove the Hex screws



Pic 2 –Shroud removed, revealing dirt – I cleaned this up to avoid any getting in the case later on.

Pic 3 –Slipping a flat blade between the case and bezel, pop off the bezel – this should be easy. In this pic you can see the two flat bezel springs still in thecase.


Pic 4 - The flat bezel springs sit in a groove and are easily removed with a small screwdriver or similar

Pic 5 - I have removed the strap and popped the case into a movement/case holder, you will need to secure the case so that you can get good leverage to unscrew the crystal retaining ring.

Pic 6 –Here the crystal retaining screw has been removed using a Jaxa type caseback remover. Ensure the remover sits properly within three grooves, apply even pressure and unscrew anti clockwise. These are normally hand tight some can be tough but keep even pressure or you may slip and scratch the crystal orcase.

Pic 7 –Under the crystal retaining ring sits a nylon band which ensures the rubber gasket below it is evenly pressed and shaped to provide a maximum seal.

Pic 8 –This shows the crystal out but the crystal gasket still in place. Removing crystal I found to be quite tricky, it sits on the rubber gasket under pressure so it is well bedded in and requires very gentle persuasion with a small flatend object, preferable made of plastic or wood. You can use a flat head screwdriver, but you can end up damaging the gasket or the crystal.

Pic 9 –This shows the crystal far left, then the rubber gasket and the minute chapter ring. The chapter ring has two grooves cut into it that match to one dial feet and the crown. This ensures that the markers line up perfectly when refitting.

Pic 10 –Here you see a gasket that sits around the movement, this should be removed to get access to the crown release button.

Pic 11 –This shows the crown release button and it sits just north of the crown,unscrew the crown, on the two occasions I have removed the crown from a 7C46 I didn’t pull it out to 1st or 2nd position prior to removal, just unscrew the crown, depress gently the release button and wiggle the crown with gentle pulling force, and it should pop out.

Pic 12 –Case, movement and crown

Pic 13 –With the crown removed there is nothing holding the movement in the case, so be careful and turn the case over ensuring you can grip the edges of the movement/dial. Then you will need to pop the movement into the holder. Remove completely the screw holding the battery retaining clip, don’t think you can nudge the battery out, you won’t. Replace battery and pop the retaining clip back and spend 30 minutes putting the little bugger of a screw back in .

Pic 14& 15 – Here is the case all nicely cleaned, I really like this case, and you can see it is a great piece of design and engineering, each groove has a purpose and the base has a raised plate where the movement sits.


Now thebattery is replaced and you have cleaned and greased (very little required) the gaskets put it back together. Do you need to replace the gaskets? Well some will swear by it, but I have found that certainly on these modern Seiko’s the gasket shape is fine and can be used again, if it has deteriorated or out of shape then of course in needs replacing.

Pic 16 –Once completed put on wrist and admire your handy work J

I want to pay credit to Dr Seiko for his tutorial on the 1000m divers, without I wouldn’t have ever dared to attempt this.

[color=#a74648]http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/message/1035756573/Inside+the+SEIKO+1000+meter+Professional+Diver+%26 gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%3C/a
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:33 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0)

bringing this interesting post up, might be needed soon, battery is actually past due date I think..
thanks great stuff-
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0)

Amazing
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0)



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Old 12-12-2018, 02:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry for resurrecting, thanks for the post.

Does anyone here have specific preference of SR43SW (silver oxide) battery for their tunas, or any other compatible battery?
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Old 12-12-2018, 04:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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wow. that's a heck of a lot of work for a battery change. And a lot of opportunity to mess something up ....
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Old 12-12-2018, 06:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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At least the rotating bezel is held in place by the shroud on both the ones I need to do, 7549-7000 and an sbbn011. But yes, to have to remove crystal and movement to just replace the battery, geez.
That’s why I was wondering about best choice of battery for longest possible interval.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default How To Change the Battery of a Darth Tuna (7C46-0AA0)

Little update, got both the Darth and the golden tuna done. The only batteries I could source locally were Renatas. All pretty much the same I guess, and did not want to wait ordering on line.
The caseback tool comes in handy to unscrew crystal retainer but also found it very easy to do this, specially when reassembling, with a hand held tool Bry made for me for this purpose with the help of Guy who graciously measured and provided the dimensions. Was made for crystal ring of 7548-7010 but also fits the three tunas I’ve gone through the front, sbbn017 also done recently.
The only tricky things were removing the crystal which I found easier to do with a polished dull knife I use to remove bezels, going around a little...
....also under chapter ring, I had to be careful getting the gasket around the movement out to access and press release lever to get crown out. IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181216/3f44c331e2ba780aeba374e4ff652abc.jpg[/IMG]
I need a movement holder for next time, but used what I have.
^ theres a little washer under battery clamp on the 7549 but not on the Darth

Everything goes back same as it came out. A few good things that came about doing this myself are that I didn’t have to ship and then wait of course. The other, that I figured out that if I filed the tips of the click springs just a tiny little I could get the bezel to line up better as PIP was going past being lined up with dial and chapter ring.

Bottom clip filed in that ^ picture, but did both of course.

All done.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last edited by Reynaldo; 12-16-2018 at 08:18 PM.
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