Project Restoration/Build - 1976 Seiko 2205-0050 Lady's Wristwatch - Seiko & Citizen Watch Forum – Japanese Watch Reviews, Discussion & Trading
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Project Restoration/Build - 1976 Seiko 2205-0050 Lady's Wristwatch

I picked up this very nice Lady's Seiko 2205-0050 with silver dial from June 76 from a fellow forum member. The watch is running extremely fast but appears to be in decent shape. The watch has been serviced at least 2 or 3 times in the past, last time in 98 if I am reading the marks correctly. Something different and challenging to work on. Casework and bracelet refinish are done. Movement inspection found no obvious damage other than way too much oil in the movement. Found pooling in some parts of the calendar side. Trying to source a new flat case back seal. Approx dimensions OD 20.4mm, ID 18.78mm, Thickness .835mm. Have a guy at Otto Frei looking for me. Esslinger has some generics that may work. Any insight on the part number or where I might source one is appreciated.
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Buy a set of generics from Esslinger. The quality is excellent and with the work you're getting through you'll use at least some of them.



That watch has a nice movement. The diver is like a women's version of the 6105 (with a better crown).
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nzwatchdoctor View Post
Buy a set of generics from Esslinger. The quality is excellent and with the work you're getting through you'll use at least some of them.



That watch has a nice movement. The diver is like a women's version of the 6105 (with a better crown).
Good to know. Thanks for the tip Paul.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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According to the Seiko Movement Table I saw, the 2205 started around 1970.



I have a several 2205s. I looked up the reference numbers on JulesBorel. None of my collection have case parts listed. I was thinking I could match the caseback size to something I have with case parts listed. Dead end.



If you order gaskets based on measurements, order a few around the size you measured, not the exact size. No idea what the thickness should be. If there was a Seiko part number, it would be easy to figure it out.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bk_lake View Post
According to the Seiko Movement Table I saw, the 2205 started around 1970.



I have a several 2205s. I looked up the reference numbers on JulesBorel. None of my collection have case parts listed. I was thinking I could match the caseback size to something I have with case parts listed. Dead end.



If you order gaskets based on measurements, order a few around the size you measured, not the exact size. No idea what the thickness should be. If there was a Seiko part number, it would be easy to figure it out.
Hey, thanks for the tips. I was not sure if this watch was from 66 or 76. Originally I was thinking 76 but then saw an ad for one stating 66 so I thought maybe the was a 1966 not really know when the 2205s were made. Still has the Diani symbol on the case and dial. I will update to 76.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Trying out my new Bergeon balance assembly tack.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Need some advice on the 2205A mainspring barrel assembly. Could not find anything on the web related to opening the barrel. For those of you who have worked on this movement, is the mainspring barrel serviceable? I do see a line around the mid section of the barrel and I have tried to take a very sharp knife blade to open the barrel similar to what I have done on other split barrels. No good and I do not what to hack up the barrel trying to force it. I have tried pressing down the gear teeth while on a hard surface to split the barrel and that has not worked either. Are these barrels sealed? Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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On the off chance you haven't seen this collection of tech guides... This guide is not easy to find here but it is in color. https://www.thewatchsite.com/14-user...res-color.html The 2202 for the basic movement. The 2205 for the winding system.



There is a note that the barrel is not usually serviced.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bk_lake View Post
On the off chance you haven't seen this collection of tech guides... This guide is not easy to find here but it is in color. https://www.thewatchsite.com/14-user...res-color.html The 2202 for the basic movement. The 2205 for the winding system.



There is a note that the barrel is not usually serviced.
BK - Thank you. I did print off the service guides for 2205A and 2202A in b/w but failed to notice the note on the mainspring barrel. I think it would come apart with some difficulty but I do not want tear it up in the process. I could see no discernible marks on the barrel from prior services. I will leave it alone. Thanks again.
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Old 09-11-2019, 12:28 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzwatchdoctor View Post
Buy a set of generics from Esslinger. The quality is excellent and with the work you're getting through you'll use at least some of them.



That watch has a nice movement. The diver is like a women's version of the 6105 (with a better crown).
Ran across this excellent writeup on the Seiko Lady's Diver using the same cal 2205 movement Paul mentions above. Thought I would share.

https://adventuresinamateurwatchfett...iko-2205-0760/
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:00 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Ran across this excellent writeup on the Seiko Lady's Diver using the same cal 2205 movement Paul mentions above. Thought I would share.

https://adventuresinamateurwatchfett...iko-2205-0760/





Thanks John


It makes for interesting reading (skimming!).


They seem complex (ok, they are) but better quality than the 4205
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Old 09-12-2019, 10:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Roll out the barrel...

I think that Spencer Klein ran into a similar issue with a mainspring barrel in a recent video on a Grandfather Tuna restoration. The one in it even states "Do Not Open" (see around minute 11). But he shows some of what he did to open it up.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I think that Spencer Klein ran into a similar issue with a mainspring barrel in a recent video on a Grandfather Tuna restoration. The one in it even states "Do Not Open" (see around minute 11). But he shows some of what he did to open it up. For AG: Seiko 6159-7019 Restoration - YouTube.
I saw this vid Tod and I actually tried flipping the 2205 mainspring barrel over both ways to open and no good. There was no black slurry around the arbor ports on the plate or barrel so I had to evaluate possibly doing damage to the barrel forcing it open or simply leaving it alone. As BK_Lake points out, the service guide states the barrel does not need to be serviced. You and I know better but I do not think Seiko intended for the barrel to be opened up once sealed or at least they do not make it easy. I have opened barrels split in the middle on other watches and this one does not want to consider opening with my knife blade. Note in the vid I provided on Watch Fettling, the author servicing a 2205 did not discuss or show any shots of the mainspring barrel open or cleaning the mainspring and he usually does this in his pieces.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Made some progress on the motion works side of the movement last night and got it up and running. Very please with the results. The first timegraph is after running for ~ 20 hours. The second timegraph is taken ~ 2 min after full wind.
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Old 09-12-2019, 06:38 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Project Restoration/Build - 1976 Seiko 2205-0050 Lady's Wristwatch

I’ve serviced several of these and have not yet found a way to service the barrel and mainspring nor have I ever found any service parts available. I usually wipe around the barrel/arbor interface with an alcohol prep wipe, let dry then touch a small bit of 9014 in that seam.

Know that you should be able to get better stable amp out of these, but admittedly I think they are a pain in the ass to work on

This is typical results on these.




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Old 09-12-2019, 06:58 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I’ve serviced several of these and have not yet found a way to service the barrel and mainspring nor have I ever found any service parts available. I usually wipe around the barrel/arbor interface with an alcohol prep wipe, let dry then touch a small bit of 9014 in that seam.

Know that you should be able to get better stable amp out of these, but admittedly I think they are a pain in the ass to work on

This is typical results on these.




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Great numbers Micheal. Glad to know I was not wrong about the barrel. I also used 9104 around the barrel arbor seam.
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Old 09-13-2019, 06:19 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Well folks, wrapped this project up this afternoon. Very please with the outcome. The watch appears to be keeping good time thus far with amplitudes on full wind in the upper 230s, 0.0 BE, and +/- 6 - 12 sec per day. The 2205A beats at 28,800 BPH and uses a lift angle of 48 deg. Whoever serviced this piece in the past misplaced the small thin brass dial washer and I could not find one to fit this watch. I do not believe it is critical so I just went without it. Found a generic flat case back seal from Esslinger gasket# 84.315.13 for future reference. A tad smaller diameter but it is very close to the original and works fine. Thanks for looking.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well folks, wrapped this project up this afternoon. Very please with the outcome. The watch appears to be keeping good time thus far with amplitudes on full wind in the upper 230s, 0.0 BE, and +/- 6 - 12 sec per day. The 2205A beats at 28,800 BPH and uses a lift angle of 48 deg. Whoever serviced this piece in the past misplaced the small thin brass dial washer and I could not find one to fit this watch. I do not believe it is critical so I just went without it. Found a generic flat case back seal from Esslinger gasket# 84.315.13 for future reference. A tad smaller diameter but it is very close to the original and works fine. Thanks for looking.





Excellent work


Good to see you're not afraid to work on women's watches, many of which (like this movement) are well thought out just.....smaller.
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Old 09-13-2019, 10:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Excellent work


Good to see you're not afraid to work on women's watches, many of which (like this movement) are well thought out just.....smaller.
Thanks Paul. I have now done 4 of the smaller lady's watches, a couple of Seikos (4206, 2205), Omega Ladymatic Cal 661, and Girard Perregaux. The Omega and GP were very small. All have been a challenge but I am more comfortable with practice.
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Old 09-15-2019, 02:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Both of you can comment on this but I have read that its a good idea to learn on ladies movements because they are so small you learn quickly about small parts and tolerances.


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Old 09-15-2019, 03:47 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I think I wouldn’t have enjoyed starting out on a 2205 or 2517. Too many shepherds hook springs, everything packed in too close. I haven’t worked on a 4205 yet, perhaps that might be different. Maybe a small pocket watch movement, but even there if it’s antique you’ve potentially got brittle pivots and springs and more susceptible to being magnetized.

I think preferably an Unitas/ETA 6497 or 98 as they are large and simple. I actually started out with a 7548 and then a 6309 or 6349, I can’t recall which. Big, simple, easy to find your way around, no stupid springs on the dial side to mess with.


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Old 09-15-2019, 04:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=CombatID;2823319]Both of you can comment on this but I have read that its a good idea to learn on ladies movements because they are so small you learn quickly about small parts and tolerances.


Apprentices normally start (I did) on clocks (cheap ones!) and work down to the smallest movements
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Old 09-15-2019, 05:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The cal 2205A contains 4 of the little shepherd springs. Lose one and your day is done.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:12 AM   #24 (permalink)
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The 4205 is easy compared to a 2205. Just small, nothing tricky.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:44 AM   #25 (permalink)
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This is all great info- thank you!


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