I'd like to share my favorite vintage chrono with you: The Seiko 6138-3002.
The main reason, I love this one, is its dial. It is simple but on the other hand interesting and surprising everytime you look at it.
Simplicity:
- No metal is used, except the Seiko logo. Everything is printed.
- The dial is very big and readable.
- The hands have a military layout. Chrono function hands are yellow.
- The day/date display is integrated very decently into the dial.
- It has no running second.
Surprise:
- The dial reflects depending on different lightning situations. When it's a cloudy day, the dial color is grey. On a shiny day it is decent marine blue.
- The dial has four layers. Everyone is designed a level deeper into the dial. The first is the small chapter ring. It holds small lume points at the hour markers. After >30 years they vanish and actually stopped luming at night. The second layer displays the hour, minute and second markers. The third level holds the branding ("Seiko Chronograph Automatic") and displays the day/date window. There is a transition to the fourth level. It displays the two chrono registers. These four layers make the dial very vivid.
This ambiguity between simplicity and surprise is what I really enjoy. This watch doesn't cry "look at me". It wants to be detected ...which is not difficult because of it's size. The case is 43mm wide and 16mm high. Because it has no bezel, it is very present.
One reason for it's size is the big caliber, the 6138. It was designed after Seikos first auto caliber, the 6139 (strange numbering!). This caliber features: it can be handwound, it has a hour register, day/date display. Something i like very much is, that it blocks when it`s completely wound. Used permanently it blocks immediatly, because the automatic winding mechanism works perfectly. This feature gives a nice feedback!
Maybe historically this was Seikos top level automatic chrono caliber. I had to regulate it once and it still performes perfect. It has a very big balance wheel and seems to be build like a tank (knock on wood ;-).
When I bought the watch, it still had it's original bracelet. It has a classic fishbone design.
Compared to nowadays standards, it seems ridiculous mounted on a watch with this dimensions. But it had carried the case for +30years! The links of the bracelet are folded. The width tapers down to 16mm at the clasp. Here is a side by side shot with a 20mm super oyster.
Of course I still have the original bracelet. But it's in the drawer now. I'm afraid a link breaks and the watch falls of the wrist during activity. So I replaced it with an solid link oyster style bracelet. The end links are bought from the jmk500-ebay store. They had to be widened a bit to fit with this case.
I also tried leather straps. There are lots of pictures with nice strap combinations in the net. But the case part, which is normally covered by the end links, is visible then. Since it's not grinded, it looks raw and ugly.
The case is similar to the Omega Speedmaster case. I like the case flow. The links an the oyster bracelet integrate very well and emphasize the classic appearance. The case wears very comfortable. It has very soft lines. Here you see different levels as well, which follow special lines. It is a very nice manufactured case.
The glass is an aftermarket loup which focusses the dials details.
But there are drawbacks in owning a vintage watch. As already stated, lume disappears from the chapter ring. When you look closer to the pic you might realize the paint falled of the dial and hands. This is dangerous for the movement.
So I enjoy everyday, this beauty performes. And I praise Seikos craftsmanship! This tank is a proof that Seiko doesn't have to hide behind Swiss brands.
Long may you run!
Thanks for reading!!
