Fake SKX's are out there and are not easy for the novice to spot. I speak from experience! To help avoid the frustration and inconvenience of picking up a fake, the following is provided to aid in identifying them. On a complete watch the main things to look for are:
1. The chamfer on the case sides is wider than an original and stops shorter on the lugs as the lugs are narrower and have a steeper profile. The surface finish of the case is also smoother and more polished than an original.
2. The dial ring (chapter ring) is thicker and the minute markers are longer than an original
3. The bezel has a shallower side profile, a U shaped centre groove and the top row of protrusions have a square face instead of rounded points.
4. The dial will be aftermarket with very poor to no lume on the markers.
If you are buying a watch with declared aftermarket dial/hands and a reworked case then look very carefully at the dial ring, bezel and the width of the lugs as that will be the only visible differences from an original.
On disassembly, the bezel is completely different with the click "spring" (nylon), a removable click ratchet (nylon) and a steel retaining spring, none of which are in the original. The case has a groove machined in it for the retaining spring and the pick up holes for the nylon click "spring" are incorrectly located at 12 & 6. There is also no bezel gasket and no gasket recess in the case.
The internal dimensions of the case are also slightly different to an original and the movement is a loose fit to the case.
I hope this helps.
1. The chamfer on the case sides is wider than an original and stops shorter on the lugs as the lugs are narrower and have a steeper profile. The surface finish of the case is also smoother and more polished than an original.
2. The dial ring (chapter ring) is thicker and the minute markers are longer than an original
3. The bezel has a shallower side profile, a U shaped centre groove and the top row of protrusions have a square face instead of rounded points.
4. The dial will be aftermarket with very poor to no lume on the markers.
If you are buying a watch with declared aftermarket dial/hands and a reworked case then look very carefully at the dial ring, bezel and the width of the lugs as that will be the only visible differences from an original.
On disassembly, the bezel is completely different with the click "spring" (nylon), a removable click ratchet (nylon) and a steel retaining spring, none of which are in the original. The case has a groove machined in it for the retaining spring and the pick up holes for the nylon click "spring" are incorrectly located at 12 & 6. There is also no bezel gasket and no gasket recess in the case.
The internal dimensions of the case are also slightly different to an original and the movement is a loose fit to the case.
I hope this helps.
